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A.S.
07-02-2006, 07:10 PM
This thread concerns finding the best stand solutions.

John Parkyn
07-02-2006, 11:16 PM
Forgive me if I'm wrong but I've heard a lot of people recommending that Harbeth speakers sit on "Skylan" stands.

What's special about Skylan stands?

What other stands are recognized as being good for Harbeths?

Soundbyte
11-02-2006, 07:27 AM
I am actually using this stand for my C7ES2 - Atacama SL500 (500 mm or 20") filed with sand to stop the ring sound... I find the bass is good and clean, taut. I guess I like it that way!

http://www.atacama-audio.co.uk/images/slseries.jpg

John Parkyn
11-02-2006, 06:52 PM
Should Harbeths be toed-in?

Perhaps some models should and other not?

How much toeing-in?

Try to achieve a sweet spot or seek a wider listening field?

Hey, no foot-dragging, let's have an answer!

Frihed89
27-02-2006, 02:01 PM
A couple of weeks ago, there was an exchange between Alan Shaw and myself regarding the use of the IKEA Lak stands that he uses in his home for his HLP3s, as well as in the "factory" for testing. (If that is not accurate, I know I will be corrected).

Now, the other day at a club meeting I proudly mentioned to a local HLP3 owner that I had bought the LAK stands for the HLP3 i didn't own yet. He was not impressed and said, one must use heavy, sand-filled stands to correctly "couple these speakers to the room".

So, either Alan disagrees with this theory or he does agree and they only differ about the "mass" of the Lak, or....?

dad58gad
27-02-2006, 10:18 PM
I have been to the Sound Anchor website, and they have stands for specific Harbeth models. They look very good. I saw a recent copy of Hi Fi+ with a mention of Compact 7s on Sound Anchor stands.

Frihed89
28-02-2006, 03:30 PM
The Lak stands are in the $20-$30 range (depending on height) in Denmark and probably the same in the US. Just what is it these commercial stands improve for the extra $5-600? I think this sort of pricing is outrageous.

If i ever get a manufactured stand it will be "Something Solid" because i think these are really cool looking (and cheap), with their Stirling Moss Bird Cage Maserati construction, compared to Sound Anchor!

Jeff Stake
03-03-2006, 04:31 PM
I think Harbeths should be toed in, aimed almost directly at the listener. My purpose is to achieve a better sweet spot, not to widen the listening field.
jeff stake


Should Harbeths be toed-in?

Perhaps some models should and other not?

How much toeing-in?

Try to achieve a sweet spot or seek a wider listening field?

Hey, no foot-dragging, let's have an answer!

A.S.
03-03-2006, 08:25 PM
I think that to some extent this is room related. If the side walls are welll damped - heavy curtains or book cases for example - then the total HF energy perceived by the listener will be lower, because a proportion is soaked up. In such a situation a toe-in could redress the balance favourably (according to your taste).

Tweeters, like all drive units, produce more energy when firing at the listener than many degrees off axis. I don't think there are any hard and fast rules that will work with all music in all rooms with all speakers. Some music is definitely recorded a bit bright and listening 5 degrees or so off axis may make it sound acceptable.

Surprising though it may seem, I tend not to bother too much about finding the sweet spot when I'm listening. I might be significantly off to one side and that tells its own story about the speakers on/off axis response.

AlanW
10-03-2006, 07:47 PM
I've gotten excellent results using marble-top "occasional tables" for my Super HL5's. I found them at TJ Maxx (a discount department store) for $25 each. They are quite heavy because of the large slab of marble, and I use small rubber footers between the marble and the speakers. They do an excellent job, and the bass quality and extension in my high-ceiling living room is outstanding, as is the rest of the audio spectrum. As has been stated elsewhere, the Harbeths speak "with one voice", and crossover points are undetectable with seemingly perfect integration of the Radial driver with the metallic tweeters (an amazing feat). The main tweeter is almost exactly at ear-level when seated in my listening chair. The stands also look quite attractive, and I use another one as a side table for my listening chairs.

James Beltran
13-03-2006, 04:15 AM
Has anyone experimented with any interface between the speaker and the stands? I recall a thread sometime back touching on this subject. I found that using various volumes of blu tac actually does alter the sound. I have not had any success with various commercial footers like isonodes,vibrapods etc and was wondering if any of you had some valuable insights to this inexplicable realm. This experimentation can be ardous and time consuming and your feedback would be much appreciated.
James Beltran

Daniele Giometti
06-04-2006, 11:05 PM
First of all, hi everybody, I'm a newbie here, this is my first post; my name is daniele and I live in Italy (so please forgive my English...).
I'm not a Harbeth owner -not yet. But I guess I'm going to be quite soon; I've listened to Monitor 30s and they sounded... ok, you know how they sounded, plenty of reviews 'round here. I just say their sound seems to be all I'm looking for.
Actually, I don't know if this is the right forum to post this thread; the question is about how to couple speakers to the stands: my dealer suggested the 'classical' blue taks, but I read somewhere it can damage the speaker itself and the sound as well.
What's true ?
If you don't use blue taks, what do you use ?
Thank you
daniele

kevint
07-04-2006, 02:21 AM
Speaker stand coupling depends on what kind of stand you are using. To my experience, smallest amount of blue taks may work for metal stand, but not necessary so for wood stand. I use relative hard carban fibre cone myself for my wood stand, it sounds more transparent than bluetaks and other soft coupling I've tried.

BTW, I have a pair of open flame Something Solid XF stand on order, will share with you all how does it sound comparing to my current wood stand.

Jodet
09-04-2006, 12:19 AM
I've used blue-tack for years, mostly on smaller speakers. My M30's are so heavy I don't think it's necessary. And yes, I would worry that blue-tack could take some of the finish off a speaker. I haven't had it happen to me, but I have had stands damaged by the stuff, so I've stopped using it altogether.

But as I said, I don't believe M30's really require 'attaching' to a stand.

-M

Celadus
24-05-2006, 05:12 PM
Hi Alan and all,

after Alan's suggestion, at less than 30 Euros, for my Compact 7ES-2 I've used with satisfaction for some months the Ikea Lack wood stand. But you know we always want to upgrade and the look also need an improvement so I've started again to search for a dedicated wood stand, I'm not interested in metal ringing or sand filled stands.
I've discovered the perfect wood stand for the C7, the GUIZU BWS-7. It measure 315*273*490, the base is exactly the same as the speaker.
No ringing problems, if you look at the photo also no baffle problems and the top base is opened. No one could ask for more.
The link is http://www.guizu.com.cn/ujkt/a/a4.htm
The measure and the model name suggest maybe they've designed it exactly for the C7.
Alan did you know nothing about that?

Hi James,
I suggest you to use a wood stand so you don't have to worry about ringing cabinet, sand fill and interface.
Start with the Ikea lack stand or if you have money check www.guizu.com.cn wood stands.
With my Ikea Lack stands I've discovered that no blue tac, felts, or any vibrapods, isonodes, etc. is better than gently put the speaker on the nude top base.

When I'll received the already ordered Guizu BWS-7 I'll post a review if anyone is interested.

Celadus
Milan, taly

kevint
25-05-2006, 02:22 AM
I have used open top wood stand before. It was good in general, but the bass misses last bit definition and dynamic is slightly soft. Installing some carbon cones between speaker and stand help a bit but not totally resolve.

Now the wood stand was replaced by Something Solid XF stand, it is light mass open frame steel, no rang at all. The bass definition and dynamic was back.

Kevin

Celadus
25-05-2006, 04:30 AM
I have used open top wood stand before. It was good in general, but the bass misses a bit definition and overall dynamic is slightly soft. Installing some carbon cones between speaker and stand help a bit but not totally resolve.

Now the stand was replaced by Something Solid XF stand, it is light weight open frame design, no rang at all. The bass definition and dynamic are back.

Kevin

Hi Kevin,

of course you know final results depends on interaction between all components, considering you've tested with good equipment and placement, can you please tell me which open top wood stand and speaker combination isn't successful?
IMHO Ikea Lack wood stand closed top are better than some expensive metal closed top stands. I haven't used Skylan or SS XF but with the Ikea I wasn't able to achieve a better sound inserting something between the stand and the C7 speaker.
I'm sure there are good metal stands or maybe some are even better than most wood one, but my goals are to avoid any potential ringing, baffle, sand filling/mass loading problems and to look better (in my WAF room) than my Ikea Lack and most metal stands, Skylan and SS XF included.
I've had difficulty to find wood stands in general, but with the Guizu "on paper" the goals are all met and the search is over, I can't imagine to ask for more.
I hope 'll try it soon.
Regards

Celadus
Milan, Italy

kevint
25-05-2006, 04:50 AM
Hi Celadus,
Agree the final result depends on interaction of all components. I did not tell any inadequacy of SS XF may be just because I did not spend enough time as I did for my previous wood stand.

Anyway, I found most soft materials like bluetak or felts do not work well for wood stand. You may try some harder cones to interface your spk to stand. I found polymer or carbon made cone from Clearlight Audio and Black Diamond Racing work quite well for wood stand.

Kevin

Frihed89
25-05-2006, 04:58 PM
Is that the "bird cage" space frame design?

Chayro
26-05-2006, 12:54 PM
When I first bought my SHL5s, the dealer recommended the 20" Epos open-frame stand, which cannot be filled. In spite of the fact that the stands are "too high and too ringy", the speakers sounded magnificent. A few months later, I felt I should have the "proper" stands and ordered 18" Skylans. They sounded good, but I made several electronics changes after that and I sort of forgot about the stands and accepted them as a given in the system. At some later point, I felt the system was sounding a bit dull, but I believed it to be something in the electronics.

By chance, a friend of mine changed his speaker stands and loaned me his 24" ringy, metal Sound Organisation stands, which I tried, knowing they are both "too high and too ringy". Guess what? The speakers sounded far better, IMO. Piano notes had better transient attack and everything sounded much more lifelike in my system.

My point is this - I'm not saying that one stand is better than the other or that one material is better than the other. I am saying that the stand material and the distance from the ground will make a significant difference in the balance of the speaker and should be experimented with. If you believe your system is on the dull or boomy side, consider raising them on a higher stand. Frankly, I think my dealer was right - those Epos 20" are a great choice. Thanks.

danrubin
27-05-2006, 02:57 AM
Fascinating. Stands are one of those areas where people tend to accept a conventional wisdom, mainly because it is too difficult to experiment. Here you have experimented and found a result you did not expect. Thanks for sharing this. I think I'll try the Epos under my SHL5's.

Chayro
27-05-2006, 05:44 AM
These are the ones I was talking about. Best results appeared to come from simply placing the speakers on the stands with no Blu-Tak or anything like that. They also come with top spikes, which I didn't try. If you have an aversion to not using an interface, you might consider Herbies thin 1" grungebuster dots at each corner, just to protect the speaker from directly contacting the metal.

http://www.amusicdirect.com/products/detail.asp?sku=AEPOSST12

J.A. Boonstra
05-08-2006, 06:44 PM
My dealer also told me, that Blue Tac may damage the finish of the speaker.
He recommended Pritt Buddies.

(I don't know if they are available in Italy, but here (in the Netherlands) they are sold to stick posters to the wall and remove them without doing damage to the wall and/or the poster.)

So I tried the Pritt buddies between my Harbeth Super HL5 and the ("heavy metal") Target R2 stands.
When using Pritt Buddies, make sure that you warm them (kneading). Put them on every corner between the speaker and the stand. Press the speaker on the stand, so that you can't seen the Buddies any more.

I am very happy with this solution. Compared to the previous situation, when the speakers were just sitting on the stands (with no "coupling"), the sound quality has improved.

Pritt Buddies are inexpensive. So you can try them without any financial risk. And because they can be removed without leaving traces, there is also no risk for your speakers.

Hopefully this answer is of any use to you.

A.S.
09-09-2006, 12:00 PM
You may have noticed in my thread: http://www.harbeth.co.uk/usergroup/showthread.php?t=154 (http://www.harbeth.co.uk/usergroup/showthread.php?t=154) that the Monitor 30s were on three-legged metal stands and the Monitor 40s on four-legged metal stands.

The M40 stands were custom made for me some years ago, and I recently rediscovered them in the stores and have put them to use. The M30 stands are completely new - a recent invention of Harbeth's distributor in France, David Manley.

The remarkable thing about these 'Twizzle' stands'* is that they have a wide range of height adjustment and are readjustable by the user very simply and easily to suite P3, C7, M30 and SHL5 to bring them up to whatever height you want. For speaker evaluation, where the listener may wish to align the height of the tweeters it is the perfect solution. It also puts to the test claims that stand height has a significant effect on sonic performance. Once the height is finally settled upon, then they can be sand or lead filled to suit. I have shuffled the M30s and their stands around so that they are side by side in these pictures just for clarity: I would not listen to them as photographed (see previous artical and pictures for my actual listening set-up).

I understand that Mr. Manley will make these available to members of our Harbeth User Group at a discounted price. Please contact him directly if you are interested. (Refer to Sales section on the Harbeth web site). The Copyright and Intellectual Property Rights associated with these designs are owned by Mr. David Manley.

Please also understand that I am not saying that these stands are sonically superior to any others (they may, or may not be; that is not the issue here) but that their ease of adjustment makes them absolutely ideal for critical listening and experimentation.

*named by me after a boy who could extend his arms and legs from the children's TV of my childhood: http://www.whirligig-tv.co.uk/tv/children/gerrya/gerrya.htm )

lvb
18-09-2006, 12:57 AM
Hello Alan, when did you stop making the stands for the Compact 7 and why? I have a pair of the original stands and I think they are perfect for the compact 7's. It seems that these would be the best soloution as far as stand hight and construction are concerned. BTW I have a pair of quite different 7's, black ash with walnut baffle and non-mirror imaged square port. They are compact 7es's. Also these speakers have completely stoped me from wanting any thing else.

Lawrence

A.S.
18-09-2006, 09:05 AM
Um. Let me think: I guess we stopped making the wooden stands at least 7 years ago. The (commercial) problems were twofold: first, the cost. There is far more hand work in making veneered wooden stands than you would imagine. Second, the problems of veneer matching. Veneer oxidises with time depending on the listening room's light level, temperature etc. , and darkens. A customer who purchase the speaker and stands some time apart may not be satisfied with the veneer match - and this is problematic for everyone in the sales chain.

Daniele Giometti
19-09-2006, 07:18 PM
Forgive me if I'm wrong but I've heard a lot of people recommending that Harbeth speakers sit on "Skylan" stands.

What's special about Skylan stands?

What other stands are recognized as being good for Harbeths?
I read enthusiastic reviews about Skylan stands; I tried to contact them once (they sell on the web) but I had no answer. Today I tried again.
Am I mistaking something ? Has anyone of you bought from Skylan on the web ?
thanks
daniele

holden
23-09-2006, 01:14 PM
Hi All,

I'm living in Japan and have just bought a used pair of compact 7 speakers. They'll come with a pair of wooden stands 40cm high which appear to have been purposely made to fit the compact 7. Will a wooden stand be suitable? I'm used to sand filled steel/metal stands but, until now have always had a smaller speaker. Just wondered if these will be suitable or will inhibit a good performance. I'll be using a quad 34 and 306 with a marantz cd-17da. Any thoughts appreciated. Also wonder how the compact 7 fares aginst the compact 7es2 and 3?

Jeff Stake
17-11-2006, 03:06 PM
Wooden stands are not a problem at all. Harbeths can sound great on them. I use them often.

Arlequen
25-11-2006, 03:29 PM
Here my custom made stands for my C7ES2 .. the four legs are full half of leads and half of sand , I'm satisfied and they work fine

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p55/Arlequen/Stereo/DSCF1841.jpg

Naimeo
04-12-2006, 06:12 AM
I am actually using this stand for my C7ES2 - Atacama SL500 (500 mm or 20") filed with sand to stop the ring sound... I find the bass is good and clean, taut. I guess I like it that way!

http://www.atacama-audio.co.uk/images/slseries.jpg


I have the same stand and is thinking of using sand too.

However, I noticed that the cabinet of my C7ES3 is quite "lively" compared to most high performance speakers I've seen.

Should I just fill the stand with light damping materials like compressed foam to stop the ringing - and not weigh the stand down - allowing the stand to sway a bit with the cabinet?

Arlequen
05-12-2006, 11:38 PM
I have the same stand and is thinking of using sand too.


Hello Naimeo ,

I suggest you to fill each half leg of your speaker stand with lead balls , just those used in Hunting Firearms .. and the other half with sand
So you have more weight and stability and more anti resonance effect.
I did the same as I described into my speaker stands you can see on the pic above

My cent!

Curio

sonofcolin
20-12-2006, 04:53 PM
Does anyone have any experience with using these stands:
http://www.mapleshaderecords.com/audioproducts/bedrockultra.php
I'm intrigued by the design and noted that Harbeth get a mention by the company from user feedback.

I actually like the idea of having the speakers close to the floor from a safety perspective (young children in the house). I have also been searching for a stand that matches the wonderful Harbeth maple cabinets.

Naimeo
03-01-2007, 05:26 AM
Thanks Arlequen. I filled up about 80% with fine sand and the improvement in terms of overall clarity at moderate to high volume is quite dramatic. Bass impact & quantity improved too.

david
12-01-2007, 04:25 PM
Hi,
I'm currently searching for some stands for my C7ES. I already searched the web, but i didn't find the right thing till now.
I am searching for some metal stands. They should look simple (black as the speakers), no eye-catchers. They should not influence the sound.
What do you use? What do you recommend? Are there solutions that are easily obtainable in Germany?

Thanks, David

NikPer
25-01-2007, 05:54 PM
I am actually using this stand for my C7ES2 - Atacama SL500 (500 mm or 20") filed with sand to stop the ring sound... I find the bass is good and clean, taut. I guess I like it that way!

http://www.atacama-audio.co.uk/images/slseries.jpg

Hi all,

I am thinking of building custom stands for my SHL5's. It is feasible for me to create something that looks like the one in the picture, only for the fact that the top and bottom plates will be made of 3cm thick MDF and the posts will be metal. This is the way my hifi rack is constructed, and the same idea will apply for the speaker stand.

Anybody think this is a good idea? It sonds nice to me, because it combines the damping characteristics of the MDF for the plates and the stability of the metal construction for the posts

vaughn3d
29-03-2007, 04:06 PM
I am using the Skylan 4 post stands for my C7s. After positioning them and filling them with sand, I have been really pleased. My floor is carpet over concrete and I used the included spikes and am amazed at how stable and secure they are. The speakers fit perfectly and the stands and speakers really seem as if they are one piece, thats how nicely they integrate. Moving the speakers from some makeshift stands onto the Skylans really improved the sound also, particularly in the bass region. Overall the Skylans are a really nice product.

aladog
30-03-2007, 02:16 AM
Vaughn3d, what is the height of your Skylan stands? Do you know if there are any acoustic benefts for having 4 posts instead of 2? Lastly, about how high are your ears from the ground when you listen to music? I am thinking about getting Skylands for mine as well.

vaughn3d
30-03-2007, 04:16 PM
I went with the 20" in stands which puts the tweeters right around ear level. However I played around and sat with my head height at +/- 4 inches and could not hear any difference.

I don't know if there are any differences between the 2 and 4 post stand, but I think the 4 post gives a much more stable look. Also you will have 2x the amount of sand to absorb vibration, so I suppose at some level the 4 post would sound better.

Give Noel at Skylan a call, he is great to chat with and can provide some excellent guidance, he knows the Harbeth line well.

Shutterbox
30-03-2007, 04:40 PM
Has anyone tried open frame designs, such as those meant for Epos ES11 or ES14?

I thought that such designs are (should I say) boundary-less and would give the maximum space for any type of bookshelf speakers to "breathe"

Ytsejam
30-03-2007, 07:47 PM
Hallo, i'm using ST12 open frame stands with Harbeth Monitor 30. They are rigid and due to their height adjustable spikes and the relative wide distance between the spikes (especially rearwards) they stand very firm also on a slightly uneven underground. I compared them with plain Mission stands two years ago (Speakers B&W CDM 1 and Harbeth HLHL-P3ES-2) and they offered a significant improvement. For the M30's they're maybe a little bit too low (i'm considering to put them on a flagstone or something else) but this is perhaps no problem with the compact 7.
Regards, Thomas

danrubin
02-04-2007, 08:26 AM
I ran my Super HL5's on the Epos stands for quite a while. I then put them on a pair of 24" Skylans that were purchased for a smaller speaker I also have. Although Noel thinks 24" is far too high for the SHL5's, I think they sound wonderful. Can't tell you if its's the height or the Skylans, but I doubt I'll go back to the Epos.

While Harbeths have lossy cabinets, it does not follow that they should be paired with lossy stands necessarily.

A.S.
02-04-2007, 09:14 AM
... I then put them on a pair of 24" Skylans ... While Harbeths have lossy cabinets, it does not follow that they should be paired with lossy stands necessarily.I agree on both counts. I think that, as a general rule of thumb, most if not all speakers will sound better the taller the stand.

The problem is practicality (stability, cosmetics, children) versus acoustics, and faced with that situation, most listeners obviously opt for shorter stands.

Yes I completely agree about 'lossy speakers, ?? lossy stands'. I have read some fine arguements for/against but I can't myself see the necessary correlation. What matters is not the quasi-theory devoid of any scientific analysis but what suits you, in your room on your budget with your domestic considerations.

danrubin
02-04-2007, 05:26 PM
One other point. With the SHL5, you might want to align the main tweeter (not the supertweeter) at ear height. (Or do I have that wrong?) Anyway, the main tweeter on the 5 is, I believe, just about the same distance from the bottom of the cabinet as the tweeter is on Compact 7. If tweeter height were your only criterion, you would use stands of the same height for both the 5 and the 7.

David Schalkwyk
05-04-2007, 04:23 PM
I agree on both counts. I think that, as a general rule of thumb, most if not all speakers will sound better the taller the stand.

The problem is practicality (stability, cosmetics, children) versus acoustics, and faced with that situation, most listeners obviously opt for shorter stands.

Yes I completely agree about 'lossy speakers, ?? lossy stands'. I have read some fine arguements for/against but I can't myself see the necessary correlation. What matters is not the quasi-theory devoid of any scientific analysis but what suits you, in your room on your budget with your domestic considerations.


Funny you should mention tall stands, Alan. I've been listening to my HP3s on 58cm stands up to now. Only yesterday I raised the 'speakers by putting them on some cans of baked beans. If I thought they sounded wonderful before they are now stupendous! My wife hates the baked beans (well, to be honest, they're not very preposessing aesthetically), so I'm going to have to think carefully about getting new stands. More money.... How high would too high be?

David

A.S.
06-04-2007, 11:22 AM
How high would too high be?The practical answer is that .... a stand that is too tall is unstable and unsafe.

I note from the Stereophile magazine April 2007 review of the HL-P3ES2 (very complimentary) that "the Harbeth's magic seemed to work only when my ears were level with the tweeter."

This is no surprise to me. At the design stage one needs to define a vertical point at which the phase-aligned soundwave path-lengths from the tweeter and bass unit to the ear are the same - and in the case of the P3ES-2 that's on tweeter axis.

T.W.
19-04-2007, 06:01 PM
Here is an example for custom stands for my M40's. They are easy to build and
quite heavy. It's a good starting point to experiment with different stand heights.
It takes only some hours to build new ones...

Here is a link to a picture
http://picasaweb.google.de/image.owner/Harbeth/photo#5055166315517250466

leekb
23-04-2007, 09:24 AM
That was a great looking stand.

Did you glue or nail the woods together? Did you put any height-adjustable spike at the bottom?

T.W.
23-04-2007, 10:19 PM
I used pegs and wood glue and some screw clamps to fix it. The hardest part is to drill the holes so that they fit.

Here are the tools you need:
http://picasaweb.google.de/image.owner/Harbeth/photo#5056717786553584562

I don't have spikes. I don't want to mess up my floor. I use 8 rubber bumpers per stand - 4 on top and 4 on buttom. They are very effective. Almost no resonances reach the floor. Even the stand itself seems to have almost no "sound". I verified this by putting my ear on the stands. These bumpers are from my local Hifi dealer - 5€ each. A mix of rubber and graphite.

http://picasaweb.google.de/image.owner/Harbeth/photo#5056717889632799682

leekb
24-04-2007, 05:59 AM
Thanks.

If I were to built one, I would have to get it spiked at the bottom because my listening area is fully carpeted. I would need to get them "spiked" through the carpet and onto the concrete floor.

erratum1
26-04-2007, 01:53 PM
Question for Mr. Alan Shaw:

I saw a full page ad in Japan Stereo Sound and Audio Accessory Magazines of Harbeths (full domesic range) sitting on what appeared to be open frame wood stands. The stands have the Harbeth logo labelled on them and looked well constructed. Without a bottom plate they looked very neat. The ads were placed by your authorised distributor in Japan, M-Plus Concept .

I would be grateful if you could let me know where I can buy them from for my Super HL5. Thank you.

leekb
05-05-2007, 03:19 PM
I am really keen in starting this project for my SHL5. I believe you have used the dowel joint in your stands.

I was thinking through the build process. I agree with you that drilling the holes accurately for the pegs is tough. Is there any tip that you could share in this?

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e9/Woodworking-joint-butt-dowel.gif

Bill C
10-06-2007, 12:56 AM
I'd be interested in information about those stands as well. They really look nice.

Knut Knutsler
01-07-2007, 02:21 AM
I'm with Bill C and erratum1 - I've never liked the look of stands in any case and I think most of those available for the larger Harbeths are unsightly. These wooden ones - from Japan I guess - are easily the most appealing style-wise. Their lossy construction would probably confer the benefits that have been claimed for other light-weight stands in these forums. Probably better.

Rachael Q
01-07-2007, 05:48 PM
Hello. I live in Japan and we can still get these Harbeth original stands for both C7 and SHL5. They are about US$540

http://joshinweb.jp/31/883/4535540126294.html
http://joshinweb.jp/31/883/2098772365555.html

I am considering importing direct from Skylan. Have spoken to Noel and he recommended 18" or higher if my ceiling was higher than 240cm. Very helpful he is. But I would also like to try out some of the open stands which Chayro has mentioned.

rachael



I'm with Bill C and erratum1 - I've never liked the look of stands in any case and I think most of those available for the larger Harbeths are unsightly. These wooden ones - from Japan I guess - are easily the most appealing style-wise. Their lossy construction would probably confer the benefits that have been claimed for other light-weight stands in these forums. Probably better.

Knut Knutsler
07-07-2007, 03:14 PM
Thanks for the links. Yes, they are the stands in the magazine pictures. Have you seen them in the flesh?

I hope you are enjoying your 5s.

Chayro
13-07-2007, 02:21 AM
I'm currently experimenting with stand height on my M30's. They just sounded too thin to me on 24" stands. I currently have them on a pair of 18" Lovans and the bottom end balanced out nicely. I've no doubt that in a more live environment, the taller stands would work better, but right now, I'm enjoying the lower ones. Judging by what I'm hearing, I think the 20" Epos will work out best for me. My listening couch is pretty low, so the tweeters are still pretty close to ear level.

Chayro
21-07-2007, 03:11 AM
I just got the Epos and the M30s sound magnificent on them. Definitely the stand for this speaker in my room. They actually place the speaker 21" off the floor. The 18"stands weren't bad, but perhaps a trifle thick in the lower mids - the bottom of male voices and such. I really think you have to experiment a bit with stands until the speaker/stand combo clicks with your room and taste.

Naimeo
01-09-2007, 01:51 PM
I'll like to share experience of a setup mistake that made my C7 ES3 sound hard & messy when the vol increases or material gets complex.

Even imaging starts to slowly deteriorate soon after I've changed to Supra Sword; I suspect that the extra bass & body from the Sword may be interacting with my room as I thought the culprit couldn't be my stands which are sand filled; nor my Zero One DAC which sounds terrific in another C7 system.

Turn out that the Blutack had been completely compressed and my C7 is practically sitting on the metal stand's top plate and is vibrating the whole stand!

Eventually used 4 small 3M bumpons on the stand's top plate to isolate the C7's vibration to allowed it to "breathe" freely; completely improved my C7 to a whole new level.

Besides fixing the harding mentioned, the imaging depth, stability & body are now pretty amazing. Harmonics, esp from acoustic piano & guitar, and subtlety of note decay made good recording sound extremely real now.

zenith
10-09-2007, 04:38 PM
Currently I use a pair of Celestion SL 600 Metal stands with RATA Torlyte tops for Compact CE7 II .
Looking at the design idea of the speaker cabinets it is thin wall and damped with the idea of letting any vibration quickly out of the cabinet and storing the energy .
large metal stands with lots of damping are rigid and will hold the speaker well but they are likely to store any energy coming from the cabinet and this might smear the sound.
Torlyte stands seem to have the same design idea as the speakers to be rigid but light and to allow all energy to quickly pass through the stand. This seems to be a good thing and has often made me want to try them but I have to admit to being a little shocked by the price so have not really got round to them.
However as Alan seems to favour the Ikea stand which has cheaper but similar properties then these stands may well be on the right lines. has anyone tried them ? The other draw back with them is that they do not have a rectangular top and so would not support all of the cabinet base . if only they could offer this I think I might be more inclined to give them a try.

eelekim
22-10-2007, 06:23 AM
Are the adjustable stands rigid enough to hold the heavy speakers? It seems that all the stands in the photos are without spikes. Have you tried using spikes? What are the effects to the sound with and without them?

A.S.
22-10-2007, 10:56 AM
Manley 'Twizzle' stands: I can not properly comment on these as we no longer have a relationship with that supplier. But, from memory, I could say that spikes or no spikes, felt or no felt, rubber or no rubber, cork or no cork none of that made the slightest difference to my ears. As you would expect though - the height of the stand makes an audible and measurable difference to what you hear at your ears at the listening sweet spot.

eelekim
22-10-2007, 05:14 PM
I think I know what you mean by your statement on the Twizzle stands. Regarding the spikes, I have the same feeling. I've recently removed all the spikes of my speaker stands for better height alignment of the tweeters and my ears. Although audiophiles usually prefer speaker stand or speaker itself with spikes, I don't want to go back for the sound with spikes. I don't know if the improved sound is due to the effect from the spike removal or the better height alignment though.

A.S.
22-10-2007, 10:08 PM
I concur with your findings that spikes are of little (or even no) importance compared with small adjustments of listing height.

I have never really been able to understand why spikes or alternative methods of mounting Harbeth speakers ever took hold as a serious pass time. If you were here I could demonstrate to you a hundred subtle component changes to the crossover that could/would make an audible and measurable difference to the sound. But spikes etc. - hummmmm: I'm really not convinced. But what do I know? I'm only the designer!

Thanos
23-10-2007, 11:44 AM
Dear Alan,

Yesterday, after a horrible day due to traffic and rain I came back and spent an hour in my L/R, listening -once more- the "midsummer night's dream" from a PHILIPS LP with an excellent recording. Philarmonia Orchestra, Ambrosian singers, Sir Neville Mariner and Arleen Auger (soprano). The aetherial and subtle passage towards the conclusion of the overture, coming out of "distant" strings, made me dreaming, closing my eyes, understanding how charismatic really was Felix Mendelssohn when he made his music on this Shakespear's play... The only thing I did not observe or consider was the way I have placed my SHL 5s on my custom stands, and the fortune I paid to isolate them from the stands' platform, or how I have isolated the stands from the hard floor with special spikes, etc. etc...

Does anybody have to become fifty years old to (once more) realize that these boxes were designed to pass the musical magic to us without that damned "Audiophilia Nervosa", puting aside the endless "improvements" and concetrating to the essence? Harbeths reproduce music. That is F e e l i n g!

Really Good Job Mr Shaw! Carry on, with our good wishes and deep appreciation! I have my SHL5s since 2005. I'm happy with them. I don't have exotic separates. I buy music, not devices with the extra money I earn. I adore music. And everything that honestly serves it, without marketing tricks...

Cheers from Athens,
Thanos

jttlee
23-10-2007, 04:03 PM
Could anyone advise the suitable model of Skylan stand for C7ES3 (2-post or 4-post or it really doesn't matter)? I sent several emails to Skylan but did not receive any replies yet.

Must I call direct for ordering? Thanks.

Regards,
John

Hu
23-10-2007, 04:25 PM
Could anyone advise the suitable model of Skylan stand for C7ES3 (2-post or 4-post or it really doesn't matter)? I sent several emails to Skylan but did not receive any replies yet.

Must I call direct for ordering? Thanks.

Regards,
John

I sent several emails to Skylan too, no reply, do not know why.

Hu

vaughn3d
23-10-2007, 10:43 PM
I've gotten to know Noel a bit over the past few months, responding to email is not his strength, but if you call he usually always answers the phone and is very friendly and enthusiastic. I use the 4 post stand for my C7, I feel it looks more substantial than the 2 post. If you tell Noel it is for the C7 he obviously knows the platform dimensions but will ask which height you want.

jttlee
24-10-2007, 03:20 AM
I've gotten to know Noel a bit over the past few months, responding to email is not his strength, but if you call he usually always answers the phone and is very friendly and enthusiastic. I use the 4 post stand for my C7, I feel it looks more substantial than the 2 post. If you tell Noel it is for the C7 he obviously knows the platform dimensions but will ask which height you want.

Hi vaughn3d,

Thanks for your information. By the way, I received an email reply from Noel yesterday. The 14-hour time difference between Hong Kong and Calgary makes it quite difficult to talk through phone. But since he prefers the phone to email, I will give him a call tonight to sort out the details then.

Regards,
John

Hu
24-10-2007, 08:23 AM
Hi vaughn3d,

Thanks for your information. By the way, I received an email reply from Noel yesterday. The 14-hour time difference between Hong Kong and Calgary makes it quite difficult to talk through phone. But since he prefers the phone to email, I will give him a call tonight to sort out the details then.

Regards,
John

Hello John,

Please ask him if we have to put the sand when we use Skylan stands, and what sort of sand. Are there any silver sand on sale in HK?

Thanks!

Regard,

Hu

jttlee
24-10-2007, 06:59 PM
Hello John,

Please ask him if we have to put the sand when we use Skylan stands, and what sort of sand. Are there any silver sand on sale in HK?

Thanks!

Regard,

Hu

Hello Hu,

I just talked to Noel on the phone right now. He asked me to tell you that he is sorry for not being able to promptly reply to email because he is now on his own and is extremely busy these few months. He will gradually catch up with the email backlog in the days to come.

Based on Noel's reply for C7, he mentioned that the posts should be filled with fine sand to about 75%. I confirmed with him over the phone that this is intended in the stand design.

I haven't asked specifically on the type of sand to be used. Maybe some Harbeth users can offer advice on this. Sorry that I don't know whether there is silver sand for sale in Hong Kong.

As vaughn3d mentioned, it is best to call Noel to discuss because he does not have a lot of spare time to answer email recently. By the way, Noel is currently running about 2.5 weeks lead time. So it probably takes about 1 month time for delivery.

Regards,
John

Hu
25-10-2007, 04:33 AM
Hello John,

Thank you very much for help! I would order Skylan stands for my M30, but really do not know what sort of good sand I could find here. When you get your Skylan stands, please tell me what sand you put into.

Regards,

Hu


Hello Hu,

I just talked to Noel on the phone right now. He asked me to tell you that he is sorry for not being able to promptly reply to email because he is now on his own and is extremely busy these few months. He will gradually catch up with the email backlog in the days to come.

Based on Noel's reply for C7, he mentioned that the posts should be filled with fine sand to about 75%. I confirmed with him over the phone that this is intended in the stand design.

I haven't asked specifically on the type of sand to be used. Maybe some Harbeth users can offer advice on this. Sorry that I don't know whether there is silver sand for sale in Hong Kong.

As vaughn3d mentioned, it is best to call Noel to discuss because he does not have a lot of spare time to answer email recently. By the way, Noel is currently running about 2.5 weeks lead time. So it probably takes about 1 month time for delivery.

Regards,
John

NIKOS MAMASSOULAS
08-11-2007, 08:34 AM
I agree on both counts. I think that, as a general rule of thumb, most if not all speakers will sound better the taller the stand.

The problem is practicality (stability, cosmetics, children) versus acoustics, and faced with that situation, most listeners obviously opt for shorter stands.

Yes I completely agree about 'lossy speakers, ?? lossy stands'. I have read some fine arguements for/against but I can't myself see the necessary correlation. What matters is not the quasi-theory devoid of any scientific analysis but what suits you, in your room on your budget with your domestic considerations.

Six months ago I bought Compact 7ES-3. The set up was Musical Fidelity A3.5 amp(125 w/ch), Musical Fidelity A.5 cdp with Atacama stands 16 inches filled with sand. My room is about 40sqrm. The sound was fantastic and harbeth performed better than any other speaker ever tried in my room (some of them costed more than twice harbeth's price). Recently I have upgrated to Musical Fidelity A1008 amp (250W, external power supply, tube pre amp stage) and the sound in terms of clarity, smoothness, detail and soundstage was dramaticaly improved.
But the more bodier sound of the new amplifier caused me a problem. The extra bass seems not to be tight and lucks control. Having adequate distance from side and rear walls I suspect that the main source of problem is the small hight of stands (16 inches).
Do you think a taller and better quality stand (eg. SKYLAN 20 inch) will solve the above mentioned problem?
I will appreciate everyone's feedback and espesially yours Alan.

Best regards from Greece.

DSRANCE
05-12-2007, 10:26 AM
I don't know, spikes or no spikes, heavy or light, wood or metal - really takes me back in time...

My own ten pence worth from the UK... Edited in view of Alans Comments below.

Spikes work well coupling a speaker stand to the floor when floor-boards and a thick carpet with underlay is involved, otherwise the speaker and stand will rock about. On many speakers I've owned over the years, this tended to rob percussive (rock and jazz at sensible levels) music of a little impact, slurring the sound a little to my ears. This will vary from speaker to speaker, but I still prefer to use spikes on well carpeted wooden floors. Solid wood and concrete floors may obviously need a different and simpler approach.

I grew to dislike spiking speakers to stands, mainly because of the horrendous damage the spikes cause to the underside of the speakers, especially to demonstration ones that had to be sold on to rotate stock. I still use some small clear stick on feet from RS components (stock number 223-837) and they've served me well for twenty years plus...

As for stands themselves, I personally found that the Something Solid XF stands, using little carbon loaded pads to locate the speaker and custom made for size and height to suit different makes and models, worked exceptionally well with different models of Harbeths.

To comment on the post above regarding amplifier choice, I have very much affection for Quad (but couldn't get on with the 34/306, despite this combination sounding stunning on the P3's when Alan demonstrated them to me all those uears ago). Nothing wrong with Quad amps if they're in fine fettle and driving an easy load like any Harbeth model...

A.S.
05-12-2007, 10:41 AM
Useful comments David but please - to make it clear - the Compact 7 you refer to was the original model of 1995 or thereabouts when we last met. Since then the C7ES, ES2 and last year the ES3 which are all subtly different and (in the case of the ES3) re-tuned in the bass. Certainly the ES3 has not drawn any comments that I am aware of about stand-bass-room-interface.

DSRANCE
05-12-2007, 11:19 AM
Useful comments David but please - to make it clear - the Compact 7 you refer to was the original model of 1995 or thereabouts when we last met. Since then the C7ES, ES2 and last year the ES3 which are all subtly different and (in the case of the ES3) re-tuned in the bass. Certainly the ES3 has not drawn any comments that I am aware of about stand-bass-room-interface.

I stand corrected and updated! Many thanks. I last heard Compact 7's in 2000, not sure of the model vintage..

I should add that my ancient but lovely HL5's in the same Northamptonshire dem-room behaved rather differently, but these again have been developed much further in recent years to their benefit.

I promise to bear my time lag very carefully in consideration of future posts (smile).

Jmohd
10-01-2008, 03:48 PM
Hi all,

When seated, the height from the floor to my ear is about 36 inches.

1) What is the ideal speaker stand height for S HL5?

2) When seated the super tweeter or the main tweeter should be leveled with the ears?

Thanks

Gan CK
10-01-2008, 04:03 PM
Hi all,

When seated, the height from the floor to my ear is about 36 inches.

1) What is the ideal speaker stand height for S HL5?

2) When seated the super tweeter or the main tweeter should be leveled with the ears?

Thanks

The ideal height is achieved when the main tweeter is at ear level when seated. Keep them away from all walls, especially side walls. Place them as far apart as you can. Personally, i also prefer to toe them in so that when you are seated, you only see a bit of the inner sides from either spks. This arrangement ensures superb stereo spread & imaging.

A.S.
11-01-2008, 01:41 PM
Just to clarify that there are no hard and fast rules about toe-in. What toe-in does is alters the mid frequencies/high frequencies ratio slightly, so that the extreme top is slightly lifted. But this is only a very small amount and some folk may or may not prefer it: it entirely depends upon your room (especially the side walls), your taste, your hearing!, your equipment and the recordings themselves.

In other words, what may be ideal for you many not suit me and vice versa. So don't be too concerned to clone other successful set-ups in your room. You must try for yourself. That said, it is always very helpful to discover what works well for other users - or especially what doesn't work so well.

As for distance apart between the speakers laterally, some folk like them wide apart, some closer together. Again, so much depends upon taste. "Do what ever sounds best to you, in your room, with your equipment and music." And most of all, do it within your budget. Do not become afraid of your stands!

"Enjoy the music!

NikPer
22-02-2008, 05:31 PM
This is the SKYLAN 18" 4-post stand, especially made for the Harbeth SHL-5. Simply great stands, I am very happy with my choice and a big improvement over the metal ones i've had on loan for the past year. Plus Nolan is a great guy to do business with.

Cheers,

Nikolas

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/NikPer/100_0123.jpg

Jmohd
22-02-2008, 06:18 PM
This is the 18" 4-post stand, especially made for the Harbeth SHL-5. Simply great stands, I am very happy with my choice and a big improvement over the metal ones i've had on loan for the past year. Plus Nolan is a great guy to do business with.

Cheers,

Nikolas

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/NikPer/100_0123.jpg

Beautiful speaker stand and nice set-up! :)

I had emailed to Mr Nolan a couple of times, till now he had not replied. I hope to get the stand for my new SHL5 which is due to come this Mar/April.
I know he may be busy but hope he could reply to my emails....still waiting .

denjo
23-02-2008, 07:09 AM
Sent Noel an email as well but he sounds like a very, very busy man! I have not received a reply to my email sent last week. I contacted my local carpenter and he can custom make the stand based on the Skylan design but in solid wood instead!! And, black diamond racing cones below each of the four pillars! With solid wood, you don't need to worry about filling the pillars with sand. And, the wood can be veneered in cherry wood! :))

Jmohd
23-02-2008, 11:56 AM
Sent Noel an email as well but he sounds like a very, very busy man! I have not received a reply to my email sent last week. I contacted my local carpenter and he can custom make the stand based on the Skylan design but in solid wood instead!! And, black diamond racing cones below each of the four pillars! With solid wood, you don't need to worry about filling the pillars with sand. And, the wood can be veneered in cherry wood! :))

Hi Denjo,

I would like a pair made too. Pls give further info, can email me.


Rgds

NikPer
23-02-2008, 07:07 PM
I filled the pilars with kitty-litter today, it took about 2 kilos for each pillar so 16 kg in total.

A.S.
27-02-2008, 10:06 AM
Here is a picture I took at THE/CES 2008. Skylan's Noel is standing on one of his stands holding a Monitor 40!

DSRANCE
02-03-2008, 12:56 PM
Six months ago I bought Compact 7ES-3. The set up was Musical Fidelity A3.5 amp(125 w/ch), Musical Fidelity A.5 cdp with Atacama stands 16 inches filled with sand. My room is about 40sqrm. The sound was fantastic and harbeth performed better than any other speaker ever tried in my room (some of them costed more than twice harbeth's price). Recently I have upgrated to Musical Fidelity A1008 amp (250W, external power supply, tube pre amp stage) and the sound in terms of clarity, smoothness, detail and soundstage was dramaticaly improved.
But the more bodier sound of the new amplifier caused me a problem. The extra bass seems not to be tight and lucks control. Having adequate distance from side and rear walls I suspect that the main source of problem is the small hight of stands (16 inches).
Do you think a taller and better quality stand (eg. SKYLAN 20 inch) will solve the above mentioned problem?
I will appreciate everyone's feedback and espesially yours Alan.

Best regards from Greece.

A late reply to an old post, but reading it again I picked up on something...

You had a great sound with the original system, but "upgrading" the amp caused the bass region to be worse, so all of a sudden the stands are at fault? A tube pre amp stage may well have been used to add some "warmth colouration"

You may well have sorted this out by now, but this is where a sympathetic dealer and a home demo of equipment can be a real help, as a different amp may have improved clarity without messing up the bass region...

Jmohd
24-03-2008, 05:20 PM
Have anyone tried these stand? Attached pictures of stand for super HL5.

Size: W314?D324?H450

I'm thinking of getting the second stand. Comments greatly appreciated

1) http://www.nobilityfurnishing.com/upload/productpic/200782421239.jpg 2) http://www.nobilityfurnishing.com/upload/productpic/2007102712059.jpg

vaughn3d
25-03-2008, 06:35 PM
they look like a torture device. sorry, had to say it. but then again, Im a Skylan fan...

Jmohd
25-03-2008, 08:03 PM
Can't get Skylan stand in Singapore. It cost about USD$600 to ship. : (

T.W.
25-03-2008, 08:14 PM
Can't get Skylan stand in Singapore. It cost about USD$600 to ship. : (

Why don't you build your own. You may have seen my earlier post from last year ...
http://www.harbeth.co.uk/usergroup/showthread.php?p=1814#post1814
They work perfect with my M40s. It's fun to build them. You can adjust the stand height
to perfectly fit your needs (Tweeter in ear height when you sit in your sofa). You can also paint
them. That gives you some more hours of relaxation.

And if you like the idea of torture they are probably even better than the other ones. Think of that you sit on the stands and unfortunallely sink down .... :-)

A.S.
25-03-2008, 09:33 PM
Now that is one of the best ideas we've ever had here. Build It Yourself. Just like the days of our youth when we had no money and we had to make our hi-fi equipment ourselves.

Congratulations on a truly excellent idea - I'd very much like to encourage our members to have a go. Hi-fi DIY is fun, relaxing and rewarding.

Thanos
26-03-2008, 06:44 PM
Now that is one of the best ideas we've ever had here. Build It Yourself. Just like the days of our youth when we had no money and we had to make our hi-fi equipment ourselves.

Congratulations on a truly excellent idea - I'd very much like to encourage our members to have a go. Hi-fi DIY is fun, relaxing and rewarding.


Hi,
As I have posted in the past, I shortly describe again my DIY stands, from the first day I got my SHL5s:

Solid wood (MDF covered with black ash veneer)) platforms 30 X 30 cm on top & bottom,connected with 4 rectangular columns at 4 corners, height 36cm. Top platform with small height lifted edges to support (keep in place on corner edges) isolating ART AUDIO graphite cubes. SHL5s sit on them with 3 very small silicone self attaching tips on each cube to prevent sliding from them. Instead of spikes, 4 superspikes (Scandinavian made special spike systems with flat feet bottoms - very good stability, no holes no scratches on floor) that are screwed at four corners underneath the bottom platform/columns. You cannot feel even the slightest vibration on the stand when playing even loud. Speakers are like floating in the air. Total cost (materials, carpenter, accessories) waw about 320 euros for both. Total stands' height (speaker bottom from floor level) is 42cm and brings tweeter height at about ear level. Hope Alan and friends find it nice, after all I feel a very little proud and very much happy I designed them and they really work!

Cheers to everybody,
Thanos from Athens

Jmohd
27-03-2008, 05:39 PM
HI Thanos,

Pls post some pictures of your speaker stand or your set-up.

rgds,

Thanos
29-03-2008, 09:42 AM
HI Thanos,

Pls post some pictures of your speaker stand or your set-up.

rgds,

Hi,
I want to, but somebody help with instructions of how do we attach pictures to the message for the user group. Thanks!

A.S.
29-03-2008, 04:20 PM
Hi,
I want to, but somebody help with instructions of how do we attach pictures to the message for the user group. Thanks! First you must log-in! Very important! Second, find your message that you want to attach photos to, or create a Reply to an existing message. Go to Manage Attachments and point to your JPEG or JPG images. They must not be too big - under about 50k is good.

Can you follow this explanation or would you like me to make a step by step screen-cam where you can follow me doing it step by step in a downloadable video?

Thanos
31-03-2008, 01:24 PM
First you must log-in! Very important! Second, find your message that you want to attach photos to, or create a Reply to an existing message. Go to Manage Attachments and point to your JPEG or JPG images. They must not be too big - under about 50k is good.

Can you follow this explanation or would you like me to make a step by step screen-cam where you can follow me doing it step by step in a downloadable video?
Ok, I'll proceed so,
Thank You Alan

A.S.
01-04-2008, 09:19 AM
Please remember, the image must be 600 pixels maximum in height or width or you can not upload it and it will be rejected. So -

a) image must be smaller than 50kB and also
b) must be smaller than 600 pixels in height or width

Vanmar
17-07-2008, 08:04 AM
Good morning,
In the last days I had the chance to test several kind of stands for my new SHL5, with different heights (many thanks to my Harbeth Retailer's patience and kindness).
In reason of this I would like to share with the other Members of thr forum, that, in my room - full of wood, carpets and books, (4,2x6x2,7m) the best results are reached using open bottom stands.
Mounting the Harbeths on a plate surface, even spiked, doesn't offer as good presentation.
Another significant improvement I could notice when liftin the speaker from a ca. 45 cm to a ca. 50 cm stand. It was hardly belivable how just 5 cm of difference in height can improve the whole sound and detail is really impressive, for sure the best I've ever heard.

P.C.
19-07-2008, 02:03 AM
I've recently discovered a very interesting range of speaker stands made especially ( i think) for Harbeths . There's very little info on them but I for one think they look great and takes the lightweight open frame philosophy to its max. Has anyone ever tried them ? I traced the maker/supplier to the Harbeth Croatian dealer: Pear Audio Europe d.o.o in Slovenija. There's only a couple of pics available on the whole web ( discovered by chance!) but the best I think is found via this link:
http://www.audiofil.net/hifi_item.asp?NewsID=235
just scroll down to the last set of three photos and double click on the last pic to open it up full size. Unfortunately when I e-mailed Pear Audio a while back the price for a set to fit my Monitor 30s sent here to the USA would have cost me around the $500 mark. I expect it would be a much better deal for those in Europe. He did explain they where made of a combination of various materials for a transparent a sound as possible. What do you all think does anyone else like them enough to try them and give us a report?

P.C.
19-07-2008, 02:50 AM
Just wanted to add that the stands mentioned in my previous post are not the same as ( but where inspired by) the similar looking but no longer available 'domos' range made by 'Reson' in Switzerland for the defunct Rehdeko loudspeakers from the early 90s.

ruzhyo
27-07-2008, 06:07 PM
My hear height (from the ground) at my listening position is 34inches. How high should the stands be for a pair of Super HL5? My ceiling is about 2.8m.

P.C.
06-08-2008, 04:42 PM
Here's another possibly interesting speaker stand for Harbeths. http://www.partingtonandco.co.uk/du.html
I wonder what Alan thinks especially regarding being used by BBC engineers. Personally I'm still more interested in the very unusual stands I mentioned here http://www.harbeth.co.uk/usergroup/showthread.php?p=3493#poststop

A.S.
06-08-2008, 08:14 PM
Guys, as I've said, it beats me how the stand can make any dramatic difference to the sound other than adjusting the position of your ears relative to the tweeter depending upon stand height.

Feel free to select stands for cosmetic or such reasons, but honeslty, truly, please don't chase the dream of vast differences in perceived quality by investing in fancy stands. In my humble opinion you will get a far greater enhancement in your life - and do good for others less well off than yourself - if you drop the money (or even half of it) you would have spent on exotic stands into a charity tin next time you are out shopping. Stands are functional. If there was a clearly superior stand don't you think that I'd have grabbed it years ago and insisted that it be used in all public exhibitions and for Harbeth development and at home myself*? This is what I've said before (http://www.harbeth.co.uk/usergroup/showthread.php?p=2902#post2902) ....

================================================== ===================
7. Harbeth speakers do not need exotic stands. You can use wooden stands or metal or plastic stands. We use them all interchangebly through development and critical listening. Distrust rumours that 'Harbeth's only work with ... stands' as there is no rational basis whatever behind them. It is entirely your free choice what takes your fancy, fits in with your furnishings and budget.you chose. If all you have available to get you going is something as basic as the IKEA plant pot stands (mentioned throughout the HUG, even used during the design (http://www.harbeth.co.uk/usergroup/showthread.php?p=2920#post2920) of the Compact 7ES3 - see picture) or a pile of house bricks or telephone directories - no problem! You will still make beautiful music. The key point is to raise the tweeter to about ear level. The Skylan stands are an excellent value-for-money choice that we have used at exhibitions ourselves. Filling stands or not is your choice.
================================================== ====================

Alan

* Yesterday, unrequested, I received in the post 'Penny Shares Investors Monthly'. I made myself a coffe and sat down to read it from cover to cover, having already spent the millions it promised. It was very well produced and talked a good long story about discoveries of vast hidden oil reserves only just now detectable by a new 'x-ray' technique. Then it occurred to me, if the technique was that solid, surely the oil giants have snapped it up and be generating wealth for themselves cutting-out people like me? The answer must be that either the technique is not reliable and/or the reserves it hints at are just not there. Back to stands - if the differences were that great, surely I'd be the very first on the bandwaggon.

P.C.
06-08-2008, 10:33 PM
Alan , I agree totally with what you say. Correct height and stability should come first after that for me its about cosmetics. Some stands will look better than others in different spaces.This was the main factor in me sharing these two visually unusual designs ( rather than performance based) I tend to like the more invisible thin framed type stands for my room, hence my interest in the ultra minimal cradle like stands made by Harbeth's Croatian distributors. On a cost level the two Euro made stands I mentioned are probably not much more if at all than the Canadian Skylans ( which I own) for the European readers of this forum even with the weak dollar after shipping is taken into account.

redryder
23-09-2008, 06:37 AM
What height speaker stand should I get for P3s? I'm a tall guy, and my ear height is about 38-40 inches off the ground when seated.

pranderos
23-09-2008, 08:32 PM
I do think tweeter at about ear height is a good guideline for determining stand height. I raised my P3s on the single post 26" Skylan stand by putting the stand on 1 1/2 inch thick square of limestone. Worked well for me, puts the tweeter at about 38". If I hadn't wanted the 26" height for the stand as a compromise for double duty in another room, I would've asked Noel at Skylan to customize his stand with a taller post. Worth asking.

good luck,
-Paul-

denjo
24-09-2008, 08:57 AM
I do think tweeter at about ear height is a good guideline for determining stand height.

Yes, Alan feels the same way about the tweeters being at ear level. The Harbeth FAQ also recommends ear level as copasetic. I have experimented with sitting height (see my earlier post) and even though the SHL5 are 3-way speakers, the recommended sitting position would be with the ear level with the main tweeter (not between the main and super tweeter). My listening impressions confirm that this is the right position as well.

Best Regards
Dennis

Madelinot
27-10-2008, 05:03 PM
Here is a picture I took at THE/CES 2008. Skylan's Noel is standing on one of his stands holding a Monitor 40!

I Alan,

I plan to buy Harbeth speakers in the next 2 or 3 weeks.

A dealer told me in Canada that Harbeth developped a speaker stand specific for Harberth speakers and they plan to have it in the next few weeks, it is true I never heard about it, if so do you have some pictures.


Thanks

Madelinot

Don Leman
27-10-2008, 06:19 PM
Detail of the stands you are inquiring about may be found at:

http://www.planetofsounddistribution.com/products/foundation/index.html

Don

Madelinot
28-10-2008, 10:46 PM
Detail of the stands you are inquiring about may be found at:

http://www.planetofsounddistribution.com/products/foundation/index.html

Don

Thanks for the information, I think my choice will be Skylan (better looking).

Madelinot

rgshar
11-11-2008, 02:18 AM
This thread concerns finding the best stand solutions.

Are Harbeths (specifically the SHL5) listenable if the speaker is placed directly on a carpeted floor? I imagine the sound is compromised, but how so? Thank you.

rgshar
11-11-2008, 02:35 AM
Forgive me if I'm wrong but I've heard a lot of people recommending that Harbeth speakers sit on "Skylan" stands.

What's special about Skylan stands?

What other stands are recognized as being good for Harbeths?


A little tangential here, but here's my question:
Is the sound affected if the surface of the stand is a bit larger than the bottom of the
speaker itself? (By 2-3 inches, say.) I would prefer that for a little more stability to prevent the speaker from
being easily shoved off the stand. I'm refering to SHL5s, but comments on any other
models are welcome. Would Skylan build one like this if asked? Thanks.

denjo
11-11-2008, 04:58 AM
I decided to make my own stands, modelled after the Skylan stands but in solid wood, with cherry veneer to match Harbeth SHL5s. Black Racing Diamond (BDR) cones are installed on base. From what I understand, the platform should not exceed the base of the speakers, otherwise the sound is compromised. I am not sure of the scientific reasoning, perhaps others more knowledgeable might chime in. The wood is locally called nyatoh, scientific name is Sapotaceae.

Best Regards
Dennis

rgshar
15-11-2008, 05:26 PM
Skylan stands for SHL5s: could someone please tell me what to fill them with?
Skylan advised PURINA MAXX kitty litter, but I cannot find this in the U.S.
Thank you.

vaughn3d
16-11-2008, 01:10 AM
I used 4 bags of sand from Home Depot. However, the sand is slightly moist so open the bags and spread the sand out to allow it to dry fully before using it.

coredump
16-11-2008, 05:59 AM
http://joshinweb.jp/av/883/2098772365555.html
http://img.joshinweb.jp/emall/img/sm/JSN_C00001/large/45/35540/4535540126294.jpg

anybody have these speaker stands? hope to own a pair. a perfect match for the SHL5.

1ryal
16-11-2008, 09:15 AM
Hi Coredump
I also liked the look of these, found nothing on the web so decided to have something similar made up, solid cherry to match, and very pleased with the result.
If any other members want the URL of the manufacurer would be glad to help, but I guess Singapore is just a little far from the UK to make it worth shipping !

coredump
16-11-2008, 11:20 AM
the look of the stands simply stir up my desire for it. Loved the retro look; goes well with a Leben amplifier too. definitely, it''ll complement my cherry SHL5 well (cosmetically)

1ryal, thanks for the information. I might want to ask carpenter to DIY one similar set too.

harbethpr
16-11-2008, 09:00 PM
Harbeth Canada have developed a range of steel stands specifically for the Compact 7 (all types), Super HL5, Monitor 30 and Monitor 40 and 40.1. These are fabricated from lightweight metal, supplied in a self-assembly kit. From Harbeth UK's perspective, these lightweight metal stands are the alternative to the Skylan stands (our long term reference stand solution) and provide a complimentary solution. The Foundation stands are backed-up with easy availability from stock.

Sales enquiries should be emailed directly to Foundation stands mailto:info@foundationstands.com (info@foundationstands.com)

tricka
19-11-2008, 03:25 AM
Hi everyone
a short note to say how happy I am with Noel's Skylan stands: filled with kitty litter they give a rock solid platform to the C7's and, dare I say it, an enhanced and tightened bass response.
Highly recommended.
Kind Regards
Andrew

A.S.
19-11-2008, 09:30 AM
I have some metal stands which I'd like to fill for stability. Noel (of Skylan) has mentioned "Kitty Litter" which he showed me at the Montreal show 2008 and has been mentioned here before. Not being a pet owner, I thought it would be easier to go to a builders warehouse and purchase a large polythene sealed-bag of 'coarse sand'. I then bought a cooking funnel from the supermarket and that's when the problems started ..... so here is my experience ....

1) The sand had sweated inside the polythene bag. That means it is damp. The consequence is that is cannot be poured down the funnel; it just sits as a clump.

2) It would have been better to buy 'silver sand' sold for children's playgrounds. Even though it too was sold in sealed polythene bags, you could see through the bag that it flowed freely and was not clumped together. Perhaps this sand is cleaner or treated to be more resistant to moisture.

3) I passed an out-of-town pet store and enquired about "Kitty Litter". From memory, "Kitty Litter" comprised small, baked-bean sized round smooth balls of some odourless chalk-coated material. The pet store had never heard of it. I asked to be shown all the cat litter products that they had. The normal product sold for the purpose is an irregular sized and shaped, white, chipped material. I bought that.

It seems to me that Noel is correct and that the most elegant, simple and clean stand filling material is indeed "Kittly Litter" - but it does not seem to be available here in the UK. I'm sure that the white chipped material (or dry silver sand) has similar or interchangeable acoustic properties but none beat "Kittly Litter" for simplicity.

I will take some pictures.

Geoff
25-11-2008, 06:39 PM
You can, at least here in Canada, buy "construction grade" sand which is kiln dried, no mioisture whatsoever. Try a building supply outlet.

/Geoff

T.W.
26-11-2008, 07:49 PM
Currently I have some selfmade stands for my M40s. About 45cm high.

Now I want to design lower ones that move the tweeter more to ear height. I know that there is minimum height to have a good bass, but I use DSP, so the bass is not an issue.

If I sit on my sofa then the tweeters are above ears height. Do you have any idea where the ideal spot is? It seems to me that the best ear position is above the mid speaker and below the tweeter? Any recommendations?

Are the M40s designed for a specific position? Where is this position?

Thanks.
T.W.

canU.K.
06-01-2009, 12:28 PM
Very happy with SKYLAN 4 post 18" stands for my C7ES3's.I used the kitty litter it was easy and effective.I bought the Purina Maxx 99%dust free in 10kg bags,2 bags did the trick.
Noel is a great guy, his stands are affordable and they perform and look great.

ebenai
13-01-2009, 03:59 AM
Hi guys: I'm wait for a pair of monitors 30 to arrive. Could anybody tell me the distance beween the bottom and the tweeter? I'm trying to figure what stand to buy. I attached a little diagram so you know what I'm referring to.

skylan
13-01-2009, 04:34 AM
Hi Ebenai,

The M-30 speakers normally go on 24" stands. (Which includes feet).

Also:
Compact 7 ..... 20"

HL-5 ..... 18"

M-40.1 ...... 14"

P-3...... 26"

Noel.

tricka
13-01-2009, 08:37 AM
Hi Ebenai
I certainly encourage you to consider Noel's stands. I am very happy with mine and Noel is an absolute gentlemen.
Kind Regards
Andrew

chas67
21-01-2009, 03:35 AM
Hi Ebenai,

The M-30 speakers normally go on 24" stands. (Which includes feet).

Also:
Compact 7 ..... 20"

HL-5 ..... 18"

M-40.1 ...... 14"

P-3...... 26"

Noel.

Hi Noel,
I recently sent you an email ordering the 14" stands for my HL5's, I didn't realise that they were designed specifically for the M-40. Would it be better to get the 18'stand s?

codel
21-02-2009, 09:12 AM
If I use wooden stands for my HSL5s (ie. the Resonant Woods speaker stands for the HARBETHS), will there be any difference between such stands and the metall ones.

kenneth
22-02-2009, 03:05 PM
Dear all,

I'm live in Hong Kong, and I would like to buy a pair of Skyland for my SHL-5. Actually I've sent two e-mails to Skyland claiming about order but I can't got any reply from Skyland till now. Anyway any other ways to contact with the Skyland?

Kenneth

Vlado
22-02-2009, 07:16 PM
Dear all,

...........Actually I've sent two e-mails to Skyland claiming about order but I can't got any reply from Skyland till now.
Anyway any other ways to contact with the Skyland?

Kenneth

Kenneth,
I sent an email to Skylan in December, also without answer.....

A.S.
22-02-2009, 08:41 PM
I'll call Skylan in Canada from the UK.

Please do remember that Noel not only makes these stands by hand but he handles all office matters and packing and despatch - truly a one man army. I'll see if we can get him to make a comment here about what is a reasonable time to wait for him.

skylan
22-02-2009, 10:23 PM
Hi folks,

My sincere apologizes for lack of response to your e.mails. I have had a few issues with my inbox and have double messages showing not read. I am getting through them at present.

Kenneth, I am sending you a reply this afternoon. (It is usually quicker to get me on the phone as I have an ear- bud connection under my hearing protection muffs when running the saws and routers).

I appreciate your patience.
Thanks,
Noel.

kenneth
23-02-2009, 02:25 AM
Hi Noel,

Thanks a lot!
My e-mail address is lauck1@netvigator.com

Regards
Kenneth

kenneth
23-02-2009, 01:09 PM
Thanks A.S. and Noel!!
I've recevied Noel's e-mail this afternoon and also ordered stands for my SHL-5!

Regards
Kenneth

Jeff Day
27-02-2009, 03:57 AM
Greetings fellow Harbethians!

A short while ago I bought a pair of the Monitor 40.1s in the US from Walter Swanbon, and then ordered a pair of stands from Noel Nolan (Skylan) in Canada. These are two great guys, so if you ever get the chance to say 'Hi!' to them be sure you do.

Anyways, back to the 40.1s: What a really nice combination in my system - I love them. I noticed after my initial setup that the bass response of the 40.1s was slightly elevated in my listening room. Not bad at all, mind you, but noticeable. A little tip you might find helpful: I made that little bit of elavated bass vanish instantly with a little inexpensive tweak. A while back my Hi-Fi friend Stepaen had another friend of mine into wood working make up quite a few sets of wood disks about an inch in diameter and a half inch thick. We made them out of all kinds of different woods. We had been putting them under the feet of the electronic componets in our Hi-Fi rigs with rather nice results.

On each of the Skylan stands I put three of the wood disks: one in the left & right front corners directly on the wood of the stand, and one in the very back in the middle. Instantly that little bit of bass elevation vanished and the nether regions became more articulate. It's a nice and inexpensive tweak to try if you're so inclined.

Best,

Jeff

tricka
27-02-2009, 09:17 AM
Jeff
are you decoupling with the wood pucks?
have you moved up from SHL5's?
Cheers
andrew

Jeff Day
27-02-2009, 03:16 PM
Jeff
are you decoupling with the wood pucks?
have you moved up from SHL5's?
Cheers
andrew
Hi Andrew,

Yes you are correct. I place three of the wood pucks on the Skylan stands as mentioned, then I sit the speakers down on top of them. The result is that the speakers are supported by the three wood pucks. For some reason, this hard 'decoupling' approach cleans up the lower end a bit and makes it more articulate. I suspect any home supply store would have various 'hard' materials one could experiment with: ceramics, wood, glass, etc. The wood is really nice though, so I'd try that first if you were in an experimenting mood.

I could never part with my SHL5s - they're a fantastic speaker. I have kept my SHL5s and use them in the 'Music Lovers' system with the Leben CS600 integrated amp I wrote about for 6Moons back when. Pure musical magic.

I don't really look at it as moving up from the SHL5 to M40.1. I look at Harbeth speakers more like I look at choosing which lens I want for my Leica MP. They all provide approximately the same level of performance, and the best on for the job is the one that works best for the size of listening room one has. For my Leica MP, for close up work I'd choose the Macro-M, but for most things I'd choose the 35 mm Summicron ASPH - it's a great all around lens. For longer shots I'd choose the 90 mm Summicron ASPH. By analogy the smaller Harbeths are what I'd choose for smaller spaces, the Super HL5 is the great all-arounder, and the M40.1 works great in my largish listening/living room. Equivalent quality and performance, different applications based on what is needed (or wanted).

My life probably will not be complete until I have a lense (Harbeth) for each application I have in mind. I see more Harbeths in my future!

Best,

Jeff

Jmohd
27-02-2009, 07:54 PM
Greetings fellow Harbethians!

A short while ago I bought a pair of the Monitor 40.1s in the US from Walter Swanbon, and then ordered a pair of stands from Noel Nolan (Skylan) in Canada. These are two great guys, so if you ever get the chance to say 'Hi!' to them be sure you do.

Anyways, back to the 40.1s: What a really nice combination in my system - I love them. I noticed after my initial setup that the bass response of the 40.1s was slightly elevated in my listening room. Not bad at all, mind you, but noticeable. A little tip you might find helpful: I made that little bit of elavated bass vanish instantly with a little inexpensive tweak. A while back my Hi-Fi friend Stepaen had another friend of mine into wood working make up quite a few sets of wood disks about an inch in diameter and a half inch thick. We made them out of all kinds of different woods. We had been putting them under the feet of the electronic componets in our Hi-Fi rigs with rather nice results.

On each of the Skylan stands I put three of the wood disks: one in the left & right front corners directly on the wood of the stand, and one in the very back in the middle. Instantly that little bit of bass elevation vanished and the nether regions became more articulate. It's a nice and inexpensive tweak to try if you're so inclined.

Best,

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

Pls post some pictures of your set up with M40.1.
I enjoy reading your review on the SHL5.
BTW, will you be doing a review on the M40.1?

Rgds

Jeff Day
27-02-2009, 10:17 PM
Hi Jeff,

Pls post some pictures of your set up with M40.1.
I enjoy reading your review on the SHL5.
BTW, will you be doing a review on the M40.1?

Rgds
Thanks for the kind words - appreciated. I will write up the M40.1 at some point, but not until I am sure I am getting everything from them they are capable of (and boy are they capable!).

The photo thing is a bit more tricky at the moment. I've sort of gotten fed up with digital cameras of late and put my Nikon on the shelf. I've gone back to shooting good old fashioned 35 mm film with a Leica MP body and a 35 mm Summicron-M lens. I just shot a bunch of Efke 25, 50, and 100 B&W film and am getting ready to send it to Cox B&W Lab to get it developed and some contact sheets made. After I review the contact sheets and pick out my favorite shots then I'll do the analogue to digiital conversion process and have some photos to post. But it may be a few weeks or so.

Kind regards,

Jeff

tricka
28-02-2009, 11:12 AM
Hi Jeff
thanks for the reply - you used a great analogy to explain your speaker choice. Or as we say here - "horses for courses".
It's interesting but I like you have heard many different speakers and alot are or have been more "audiophile" but very few give me the musicality of the Harbeth's...abit like revisiting ESL57's driven by a tube amp.
Aren't the Leben's great? A friend reported great things with his 99db Hornings and the CX300.
I recently decoupled with Auralex Gramma's - work well but hideously ugly. I'll try the puck tweak.
Cheers
Andrew

Stephen PG
26-03-2009, 10:29 AM
I've made a start on some diy stands for my shl5s

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg120/Basil_023/shl5stands.jpg

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg120/Basil_023/IMG_0473.jpg

Thanks to T.W. for the idea.

Jmohd
27-03-2009, 02:01 PM
Hi Stephen PG,

How do you accurately mark-out and drill the holes?

Stephen PG
27-03-2009, 02:09 PM
I use this dowel set (http://www.bosch-pt.com/bosch-diy-helpsite/Category.jsp;jsessionid=C2AF06A33725BBB9E0989FE5AB D83BCB.s035?country=UK&lang=en&ccat_id=93377&ccat_id_bl=94908) from Bosch.

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg120/Basil_023/IMG_0475.jpg

T.W.
28-03-2009, 01:37 PM
I use this dowel set (http://www.bosch-pt.com/bosch-diy-helpsite/Category.jsp;jsessionid=C2AF06A33725BBB9E0989FE5AB D83BCB.s035?country=UK&lang=en&ccat_id=93377&ccat_id_bl=94908) from Bosch.

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg120/Basil_023/IMG_0475.jpg

A note: Drill into the end grain first - the drill will move! Mark each connection with tape and write a number on it. Then it doesn't matter if the holes are exactly on the right place, but the marked pair will fit.

I have recently build another lower pair for my M40s.

http://www.harbeth.co.uk/usergroup/attachment.php?attachmentid=424&stc=1&d=1238243742

Stephen PG
29-03-2009, 01:43 PM
A note: Drill into the end grain first - the drill will move! Mark each connection with tape and write a number on it. Then it doesn't matter if the holes are exactly on the right place, but the marked pair will fit.

I have recently build another lower pair for my M40s.

T.W.

Absolutely right, there is also another reason for drilling the end grain first; it's quite hard to see the marks left by the alignment tool in the grain!

As for the drill moving, I bet you weren't using one of these drill bits? (http://www.bosch-pt.com/bosch-diy-helpsite/Category.jsp;jsessionid=FF533EBE7129225EDECF841759 0C8660.s035?country=UK&lang=en&ccat_id=93359&ccat_id_bl=94866)

David Schalkwyk
30-03-2009, 07:25 PM
There must be an answer to this in the forum somewhere, so forgive me for repeating the question. Can anyone tell me which Skylan stands to get for 1) the Compact 7 and 2) the HP3?

Thanks

David

skylan
30-03-2009, 11:00 PM
Hi David,

The Compact -7. requires 20" (510) stands.

The P-3. requires 26" (660) stands.

Also,

HL-5. requires 18" (460) stands

M-40.1 requires around 14" (350) stands.

Height is with feet fitted.

Regards,
Noel.

Stephen PG
20-04-2009, 01:27 PM
Finished, well sort of, as finished as these thing ever are!

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg120/Basil_023/Image-13.jpg

I'll properly match the stands to the speakers when my own pair arrives.

I'm using some rubber "bump-stops" between the speaker and stand, which are too "squidgy" so the speakers don't feel solidly mounted on the stands, earlier in the thread T.W. mentioned these:


These bumpers are from my local Hifi dealer - 5? each. A mix of rubber and graphite.

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg120/Basil_023/DSCF0011.jpg

But countless fruitless searches later and I've come up blank, if you happen to read this T.W., an internet address for the place you bought them would be very useful.

T.W.
20-04-2009, 02:15 PM
But countless fruitless searches later and I've come up blank, if you happen to read this T.W., an internet address for the place you bought them would be very useful.

I bought it here:
http://www.uni-hifi-hannover.de
Go to "Kontakt" to see the contact information. I'm sure they speak english there.
If you have any trouble feel free to send me a private mail.

I use 8 bumpers per stand (top and bottom).
Note: This makes the stands about 4cm higher (2 x 2cm).

TW

tmallin
17-06-2009, 10:01 PM
Hi David,

The Compact -7. requires 20" (510) stands.

The P-3. requires 26" (660) stands.

Also,

HL-5. requires 18" (460) stands

M-40.1 requires around 14" (350) stands.

Height is with feet fitted.

Regards,
Noel.


With my M40s, I have used stands from 11" to 24" in height. In my room, with my M40s and the room's strong bass standing waves, I've found that "higher is better" as long as you have a chair that can get your ears up high enough to be even with the tweeter. With the speakers higher, the bass evens out a bit and the overall presentation is bigger, more open, and more three-dimensional sounding. I have a Steelcase Leap chair with a pneumatic lift. With the chair at full-up extension, I can sit comfortably with my ears high enough to use a 24" stand.

I also have found that, with my concrete floor under the carpet of this room, extremely rigid stands spiked through the carpet down to the concrete do not perform as well as stands with a bit more "give." Greater rigidity just unnaturally etches the highs.

The best speaker stands I've found for the M40s--and I've used everything from plastic milk crates to wooden stools to Sound Anchor, Skylan, and custom-fabricated fiberglass and have experimented with various ways of interfacing the stand to the speakers and the floor--are a pair of Allison 24" counter stools with square wooden tops that are slightly smaller than the M40 footprint. I got these at Target for about $50 the pair. While this exact stool no longer seems to be available, something very similar looking is here:

http://www.barstools.com/counter-height-stools/wood/squareseat24inchstoolsetof2.cfm

I use a single layer of terrycloth toweling as an interface between the bottom of the speakers and the top of the stool and let the stand legs sit atop the carpet. Given the weight of the speakers, the stand legs make impressions in the carpet, but there is still a small amount of "give" between the stand and the floor. And while the stand is quite sturdy, it is not the ultimate in rigidity. This arrangement is the best sounding I've heard with my M40s in this room.

kukakunga
12-08-2009, 03:12 PM
I'd like to share some recent changes and results with you guys. I have SHL5's on solid cherry 4 post stands, each post is 4x4 inches and there is no platform on top. When I first got my Harbeths I put a thick tile on the stands to act as a base, the tile was applied to the stand with blu-tak and the speaker to the tile with blue tak as well. I've lived with this for over a year and the sound is very good. A few nights ago I decided to take the tile bases off the stands and mount the speakers directly onto the four post using some little plastic floor protectors with felts on them.
The difference in sound was quite apparent right away and the way it was apparent made sense to me. The Harbeth cabinet is made to dissipate considerable energy from its panels, one just has to walk around the speaker and touch it to realize this is a distinct feature of the design and one can really sense the immediacy this creates. I think the bottom panel being on a large, flat surface inhibits the way the speaker dissipates energy, or at least the effects of transfering that energy to another panel, the stand, is less predictable and could cause some response anomalies. The sound on the open stand now has more bass, more "wood" in the sound, better image, and seems to have more volume given the speaker is less damped, the speaker seems to breath better and has more life. So, to me, open frame stands seem to give the best performance based on my experience.

John Geisen
15-08-2009, 08:56 PM
Is it possible to post a photo or drawing of this?

Ron Herbster
16-08-2009, 02:54 AM
With my 40s and now with my 40.1s I have always used Skylan stands. After switching to the 40.1 I cut the posts to make an overall height of 14".
I also found that by using a towel between the speaker and stand muffled the sound and I have gotten excellent results by incorporating Star Sound devices in with my Skylans.
I am using the coupling discs on the floor and 4 2" threaded Audio Points for stand feet. I countersunk 3 brass thread inserts into the top of both stands, 2 in the front corners and 1 in the middle back and screwed in coupling discs to these inserts. The speakers are sitting on 3 .2AP.7D Audio Points which are resting on the coupling discs. The posts are filled with Star Sounds micro bearing steel fill.

kukakunga
17-08-2009, 05:45 PM
I will post some pics of my system as soon as I can so you guys can get a look.

skylan
27-09-2009, 09:25 PM
Comments from Moray James

Speaker stand mass loading alternative materials...

I was fortunate enough to be visiting Noel Nolan of Skylan stands several weeks ago and he was working on some alternate ideas for damping both speaker and rack columns. Noel has had numerous requests from customers looking for possible alternatives for sand and kitty litter used in mass loading/damping. We listened to a series of speaker stands the columns damped with a number of different weight high density open cell foam blocks. The blocks of foam are cut oversized and run the length of the Polymer column. Noel had devised a clever insertion device which wrapped the foam plug compressing it thus permitting the entire block of foam to be totally inserted into the column and the jig removed. This insured that the oversized foam block makes perfect smooth contact with the column walls. I actually tried to insert one of the large blocks of foam into a column by hand after suggesting that the jig was probably not necessary. Well after skinning my hand badly and not being able to get the foam placed even half way down the column I had to admit that Noel's clever jig was exactly what was required.

We auditioned the foam damped speaker stands against a reference set of Noel's stands and were both surprised as to the impact of the open cell foam. No the foam is not up to reference standard but when compared to the same stand with empty columns there was a noticeable improvement. Next we moved on to the foam inserted into Noel's MDF rack columns. Here was a big surprise because the improvement was more apparent than we had found with the Polymer columns. This turned out to be as a result to the stiffness of the MDF compared to the Polymer column material. After a few hours of listening we began to discuss possible alternates to sand and kitty litter for customers who have a difficult time locating either of these products. After a pint of Guinness the idea of Rice as a mass loading material came up. Off we went to the food store and bought a 20 Kg bag of discount rice. Turns out that the 20 Kg bag was perfect to fill all eight columns of the stands holding up Noel's Harbeth HL5's. The result was vastly superior to the foam damped stands and surprisingly good compared to the reference sand damped stands which include specially damped tops and bases.

While the rice filled stands are not quite as efficient in terms of damping as is sand fill Noel was aware that many Harbeth owners find that full column sand damping makes for just a bit too much bass energy. Half filling is a pain to do and this is exactly what prompted Noel to recommend filling the stands with kitty litter. After some time though many found that even filling half way with kitty litter there was still a bit too much bass energy. So it was we next compared a set of four post stands, one set half filled with kitty litter and the other entirely filled with rice. This was an interesting comparison as the rice filled stands sounded clearer and cleaner with more controlled and articulate bass than that obtained with the half filled kitty liter stands. The rice stands actually weighed more than the kitty litter stands. While the rice is not as effective in damping due to particle friction (compared to either kitty litter or sand) the added volume results in increased mass which worked out to be an almost perfect combination. The especially nice part of all this is that the rice (we uses long grain just incase you were wondering) is inexpensive and easy to obtain all over the world at any food store. Combine the fact that you don't have to pre measure anything as with half filling with sand or kitty litter you just buy a 20 Kg bag of rice and fill all four columns up to the top and you are done. The rice is especially easy and clean to work with and there is no surface scratches as can happen with sand plus any spillage is picked up a jiffy.

Stand / Speaker interface experiments...

Fast forward to today, after allowing the rice in the test stands to fully settle into place for a few weeks we decided to experiment with speaker / stand interfaces. The Skylan stand comes fitted with Polyurethane tabs (four small disks, one at each corner of the stand top plate). The magnetic disks are about a centimeter in diameter and approximately 3 mm thick, just high enough to clear the Polyurethane pads. We listened to a selection of tracks of various kinds of music with the speakers seated upon the stock Polyurethane tabs. This was our reference sound. Next we placed the loudspeakers (Noel's Harbeth HL5's) up on three small ceramic disk magnets. The choice of material here was for several reasons, the small ceramic disk magnets are easy to find (most folks need only look on the fridge door) and also because they are very hard, being a sintered ceramic material. We placed a layer of electricians PVC tape on each side of the magnet disks to provide a small compression interface between the cabinet and the stand surface (Scotch tape would likely do as well). The three disks were positioned with two at the front corners of the stand top plate and the third disk in the centre of the rear of the stand top plate. This results in a tripod configuration and is very stable but more importantly results in a significant increase in the mass per disk that would otherwise be obtained using four disks.

The result was an immediate improvement in bass weight and control along with improved focus of sound stage. Voices and instruments now had a clearer place within the sound stage. We next moved the two front magnet disks to the top of the metal threaded inserts (the ones the column rods screw into) on the top plate and left the central disk at the rear of the top plate as before. The idea here was to increase the hard coupling of the speaker to the stand (top plate, coupling rod, base plate, spikes and floor). Placing the magnetic disks onto the column rod inserts couples more energy to the stand via the threaded rod. This also couples more energy into the column damping material. This position resulted in further improvements in bass articulation as well as dynamics. Spatial cues were clearer and the sound stage opened up even further than was noticed with the previous disk position. As with all things your personal taste, likes and dislikes will come into play. I think that you may find experimenting with these ideas could result in enhancing the level of your listening enjoyment. I hope that this posting has been of interest and use. Best regards Moray James.

garmtz
28-09-2009, 08:23 PM
Great post! In my experiments, using cones with the point down directly onto the stand and using the one cone at the front, not at the back (most energy is in the front and coupling through a single point is more effective), proves very effective, especially in making the sound less 'heavy'/slow and more transparent.

Hagto
03-10-2009, 02:21 PM
Anyone who knows the stands used here?

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g264/Hagto/Harbeth3Medium.jpg

jim123
03-10-2009, 03:37 PM
Those stands are "Guizu" stands from China.

http://www.guizu.com.cn/production/catshow.htm?pid=1&catid=7&prid=64

Hagto
03-10-2009, 03:42 PM
Those stands are "Guizu" stands from China.

http://www.guizu.com.cn/production/catshow.htm?pid=1&catid=7&prid=64

Thank You very much!

kittykat
01-11-2009, 12:23 PM
There might be an easier way than to build stands from scratch. Modifying Ikea furniture as speaker stands might be a solution. There are two suitable Ikea kits which might fit the bill. One is more suitable for smaller speakers, ie. Molger shelving (5 shelf) made of clear stained lacquered walnut. It originally measures 37 (d) x 37(w) x140 (h). The longest pieces (which make up the height) will need to be cut to a required height for your speaker. The width and depth will also need to be shortened to suit your speaker?s dimension. The cross braces will need to be cut to the suitable width and depth as well. Ditch the slats.

Another kit which would be a stronger but would be a more expensive solution would be to use the Norden bench (originally 150(l) x35 (w) x 45 (h)) but you?ll need 2 of these for a pair of speakers. This time, cut the length of the bench to suit the width of your speaker. The height of this kit is just nice for the SHL5 if you attach some speaker spikes.

Happy modifying.

A.S.
06-01-2010, 11:35 PM
At the last CES show we we most impressed with the hand made Resonant Woods stands. These do not claim any exotic voodoo but they are beautifully made by a really gifted American craftsman, Brooks Tanner who we have become very friendly with at these past CES shows.

Of course, handmade eucalyptus, chgerry and walnut stands take time, care and love to produce so they are not in the Skylan cost range, but they are beautiful. And Brooks is s fine man who deserves to have his semi-custom stands in your homes with our speakers. He can adjust the design a little, and the materials and the interface with the speaker to taste. The basic stand has simple threaded spikes (like Skylan) on the base, with a brass puck between the speaker and stand.

As a indication, a pair of these stands would take Brooks about three days - yes, three days - solid work (as Brooks says, a crazy amount of time but he is a perfectionist) and on a direct-sale basis the M40.1 stands wil cost you from $1600-1800/pair plus shipping. Fantastic value with genuine pride of ownership. Strongly recommeneded by me for the beautiful workmanship.

Brooks' web site is here (http://www.resonantwoods.com/2009%20CES.html) and you can reach him through the website info.

agentsmith
07-01-2010, 10:35 AM
A $10,495 Acoustic Revive speaker stand, 22 times more than the Skylan stand! Probably 300 times more than a pair of Ikea ler!

http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue47/acoustic_revive.htm

fiore
20-02-2010, 12:26 AM
Um. Let me think: I guess we stopped making the wooden stands at least 7 years ago. The (commercial) problems were twofold: first, the cost. There is far more hand work in making veneered wooden stands than you would imagine. Second, the problems of veneer matching. Veneer oxidises with time depending on the listening room's light level, temperature etc. , and darkens. A customer who purchase the speaker and stands some time apart may not be satisfied with the veneer match - and this is problematic for everyone in the sales chain.

Hello Alan,

To solve the maching color problem an easy way could be to produce only wood stand in a black color

My2cent

PhilR
21-02-2010, 12:08 PM
Hi everyone, just ordered my first pair of Harbeth Compact 7es (in Rosewood). Very exciting!

For stands I am not sure what to do - can anyone recommend the 'Something Solid XF' stands? They are custom made in the UK.

I do like the look of the Skylans too - what is the average lead time from order to receipt?

francisco
21-02-2010, 12:50 PM
All know, that the best stand for Harbeth, is the open frame, but, what is the best: wood or steel?, physic, from point of veiw.
Regards.

hifi_dave
21-02-2010, 01:23 PM
Hi everyone, just ordered my first pair of Harbeth Compact 7es (in Rosewood). Very exciting!

For stands I am not sure what to do - can anyone recommend the 'Something Solid XF' stands? They are custom made in the UK.

I do like the look of the Skylans too - what is the average lead time from order to receipt?

Without doubt, the best stands I have ever used with any speaker and definitely with Harbeth is the Something Solid XF. It's fast, clean, open and dynamic and really brings out the best from your speakers. Reasonably priced too.

tozen
21-02-2010, 04:00 PM
I have found wood to sound a bit warmer than steel, so use a wood open frame design made by a carpenter at very reasonable cost to my specs. I am not aware of a commercially produced high quality wood open frame stand here in the uk. Would be interesting to compare such a stand to the Something Solids

francisco
21-02-2010, 04:18 PM
Without doubt, the best stands I have ever used with any speaker and definitely with Harbeth is the Something Solid XF. It's fast, clean, open and dynamic and really brings out the best from your speakers. Reasonably priced too.

....solid XF,What do you mean? -

tozen:

".....have found wood to sound a bit warmer than steel, so use a wood open frame design made by a carpenter at very reasonable cost to my specs. I am not aware of a commercially produced high quality wood open frame stand here in the uk. Would be interesting to compare such a stand to the Something Solids "

And the bass, is also better with wood?,
I think that the bass is better with steel, (open frame stand) .

tozen
21-02-2010, 04:27 PM
I would guess bass is a bit tighter with steel. I seek to maximise midrange performance and have found steel to sound, pardon the expression, a bit steelier than wood. A well made wood open frame is still v open and fast. It is also, arguably, cosmetically very pleasing. I think there must be plenty of good local carpenters who would oblige. The individual touch also gives pride of ownership. What I have is similar to the fantastic Brooks stands noted above - a notch or two down in terms of craftsmanship, but still great build and considerably cheaper.

francisco
21-02-2010, 05:06 PM
I would guess bass is a bit tighter with steel. I seek to maximise midrange performance and have found steel to sound, pardon the expression, a bit steelier than wood. A well made wood open frame is still v open and fast. It is also, arguably, cosmetically very pleasing. I think there must be plenty of good local carpenters who would oblige. The individual touch also gives pride of ownership. What I have is similar to the fantastic Brooks stands noted above - a notch or two down in terms of craftsmanship, but still great build and considerably cheaper.

......and, the wood stand, has one high WAF.

I have two possibility for my SHL5 :

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg120/Basil_023/shl5stands.jpg

and this:

http://www.avcat.jp/avnews/2009/mb2i.jpg

this stand it seems very pretty, but i think that my wife prefer wood.Regards.

Thanos
21-02-2010, 05:22 PM
Hi,
some remarks to the subject:

- The stands' material would not contribute to the sound as far as the speakers would be seriously decoupled from their platforms.
- The speaker will not radiate towards the stand, so what we hear is resonance after reflected sound. This means that the stand's contribution to sound is probably not even noticed some times, especially if reflections are absorbed from other materials.
- One has to measure vibrations that reach the stand (from insufficient decoupling) with scientific instruments in order to have a clear opinion of what happens with frequencies being influenced. These frequencies will have a major or a minor influence to the general sound, then we can tell how much materials play their role.

I have tried two types of metal stands and another wooden. I have finally designed my own wooden stands for the SHL5s and ordered them from a trusted carpenter, therefore they costed less than half the price of ready made ones. I happened to find some good solution to seriously decouple the speakers from the upper platforms, so I heard almost no differences at all, no matter which stand I used. Note that, except decoupling the speaker from the stand, I also seriously isolated the stands themselves from the floor, by using Soundcare Superspikes, that proved very effective and didn't damage the floor. I'm just sharing my thoughts with forum mates, any comments will be very useful and welcomed.

Regards,
Thanos

hifi_dave
21-02-2010, 05:37 PM
Over the years I have tried just about every type of stand there is and have now settled on the Something Solid stands.

When I first got in a pair of the 7ES-3 and a few weeks after, the SHL5, I experimented over again. First up was an open box constructed from MDF, then a couple of mass loaded stands, a mass loaded tube and even cardboard cartons filled with corrugated cardboard, finally the Something Solid XF. This, to my ears gives the best balanced sound - clean, fast and dynamic with a tactile midband. They work well with every speaker I have tried and the only negative I have is that they don't look right under a very small speaker like the P3ESR.

jferreir
21-02-2010, 09:53 PM
They work well with every speaker I have tried and the only negative I have is that they don't look right under a very small speaker like the P3ESR.

Not to hijack this thread, but which speaker stands are recommended most often for the P3ESR (and why)? I find there is a notable absence in this regard.

After perusing various dealer websites, I often find that speaker stands are marketed toward specific Harbeth models, save for the P3ESR. I would be very interested in hearing what speaker stands other P3ESR owners use, perhaps with a few pictures (if it's not too much to ask). As an aside, does the 'open frame' philosophy apply to the mini-monitor as well? Truthfully, I'm not terribly concerned with how the speaker stand will impact the sound*, if at all, but I am a stickler for design and craftsmanship.

Thanks for the help!

*Provided that the speaker stand is of the approproate height and properly coupled to the speakers/floor, I doubt that I, personally, would be able to discern any difference in sound quality.

keithwwk
22-02-2010, 03:31 AM
Over the years I have tried just about every type of stand there is and have now settled on the Something Solid stands.

When I first got in a pair of the 7ES-3 and a few weeks after, the SHL5, I experimented over again. First up was an open box constructed from MDF, then a couple of mass loaded stands, a mass loaded tube and even cardboard cartons filled with corrugated cardboard, finally the Something Solid XF. This, to my ears gives the best balanced sound - clean, fast and dynamic with a tactile midband. They work well with every speaker I have tried and the only negative I have is that they don't look right under a very small speaker like the P3ESR.

May I know where to get the Solid FX stand in England? How much the selling price is?

Bodfish
24-02-2010, 07:24 PM
Over the years I have tried just about every type of stand there is and have now settled on the Something Solid stands.

When I first got in a pair of the 7ES-3 and a few weeks after, the SHL5, I experimented over again. First up was an open box constructed from MDF, then a couple of mass loaded stands, a mass loaded tube and even cardboard cartons filled with corrugated cardboard, finally the Something Solid XF. This, to my ears gives the best balanced sound - clean, fast and dynamic with a tactile midband. They work well with every speaker I have tried and the only negative I have is that they don't look right under a very small speaker like the P3ESR.

Dagnamit, and I take delivery tomorrow of my new Something Solid XF stands on which I will be placing.......my P3ESRs! Luckily I have incredibly bad eyesight and usually listen of an evening with the lights turned down and my glasses off...most of the time I can't actually see my kit!

hifi_dave
24-02-2010, 07:47 PM
The price depends to some extent on the size but they are usually around 230 per pair.

denjo
25-02-2010, 03:35 AM
The price depends to some extent on the size but they are usually around 230 per pair.

Hi hifi_dave, how high should the Something Solid stands be for the P3ESR? The Harbeth website recommends 24+ inches.

Best Regards
Dennis

Labarum
19-03-2010, 02:49 PM
Just come across this eBay shop - solid oak speaker stands

http://www.auctiva.com/stores/viewstore2.aspx?id=471510&styleid=12&siteid=3

About 120 for this model

http://cdn.whathifi.com/productimages/9869004a3th.jpg

hifi_dave
19-03-2010, 08:30 PM
Hi hifi_dave, how high should the Something Solid stands be for the P3ESR? The Harbeth website recommends 24+ inches.

Best Regards
Dennis
A might late I know but - the tweeter should be at ear level which means the stand should be at least 24 inches, probably nearer 28. You need to sit in the 'hot' seat and measure your ear to floor and calculate from that measurement.

skylan
19-03-2010, 10:53 PM
Hi Dennis.
Many folks when sitting on a regular couch or sofa have their ear level at approx. 28" from the floor, so having the P3R on 27" stands should be very close, this includes the feet fitted.

Noel.

tunes
22-03-2010, 09:54 PM
Hello,

Has anyone ever seen and heard these? Love the funeral parlour charm. In a more colorful and modern context like my living room they might work very well, esthetically. They should be easy to clone. IfI can make them rigid and fairly light, they should be able to do the job for a pair of M30's.

http://audio-heritage.jp/HARBETH/speaker/hl5.html

Comments?

Tunes

Labarum
22-03-2010, 10:02 PM
Hello,

Has anyone ever seen and heard these? Love the funeral parlour charm. In a more colorful and modern context like my living room they might work very well, esthetically. They should be easy to clone. IfI can make them rigid and fairly light, they should be able to do the job for a pair of M30's.

http://audio-heritage.jp/HARBETH/speaker/hl5.html

Comments?

Tunes

I'm sure these folk could clone them

http://www.auctiva.com/stores/viewstore2.aspx?id=471510&styleid=12&siteid=3

They offer custom builds

douga
23-03-2010, 02:07 AM
Hello,

Has anyone ever seen and heard these? Love the funeral parlour charm. In a more colorful and modern context like my living room they might work very well, esthetically. They should be easy to clone. IfI can make them rigid and fairly light, they should be able to do the job for a pair of M30's.

http://audio-heritage.jp/HARBETH/speaker/hl5.html



I would honestly be afraid that the speaker would topple; but perhaps this is because I have an active dog. The dog, by the way, has so far failed to topple the Skylan stands I have.

garmtz
24-03-2010, 11:00 AM
I wanted to share a photo of the stands I have had Custom Design (http://customdesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_99&products_id=244&osCsid=a33dec3366e156667ca608cc42933bb7) make custom for my Monitor 30's. They are in a custom white color, are exactly 24" high (to bring them exactly at ear level on the couch I am using), very rigid and very well damped. I love them!

They also make a stand which looks perfect for a pair op HL-P3: http://customdesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_109&products_id=318&osCsid=a33dec3366e156667ca608cc42933bb7

Gan CK
24-03-2010, 11:27 AM
I wanted to share a photo of the stands I have had Custom Design (http://customdesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_99&products_id=244&osCsid=a33dec3366e156667ca608cc42933bb7) make custom for my Monitor 30's. They are in a custom white color, are exactly 24" high (to bring them exactly at ear level on the couch I am using), very rigid and very well damped. I love them!

They also make a stand which looks perfect for a pair op HL-P3: http://customdesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_109&products_id=318&osCsid=a33dec3366e156667ca608cc42933bb7

Nice looking stands there. The stands for my SHL-5 are similar in outlook except they are lower & black in colour. Love em too!

123teemu
25-03-2010, 07:27 AM
Dagnamit, and I take delivery tomorrow of my new Something Solid XF stands on which I will be placing.......my P3ESRs!

I know this is late, but I have had a negative experience with the Something Solid XF stands. The quality of finish was unacceptably bad (the worst I have ever seen on any audio related component). I returned them. The dealer handled things professionally, but I would not recommend Something Solid to anyone. But that's my 2 eurocents - hopefully you have better luck. Have you received your stands yet?

I now have the Music Tools ToolOne stands for my P3ESR's and they are fantastic (not open frame but work well).

Br,
Teme

hifi_dave
25-03-2010, 10:54 AM
OK, my two pennies worth - I've been selling Something Solid stands since the early 80's and, as you may imagine, have many very satisfied customers. In all these years I have never had any negative comments on the finish, just delight at the sound.

Somthing Solid are still the stands I have found to give the very best results with Harbeth speakers.

keithwwk
26-03-2010, 06:37 AM
I wanted to share a photo of the stands I have had Custom Design (http://customdesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_99&products_id=244&osCsid=a33dec3366e156667ca608cc42933bb7) make custom for my Monitor 30's. They are in a custom white color, are exactly 24" high (to bring them exactly at ear level on the couch I am using), very rigid and very well damped. I love them!

They also make a stand which looks perfect for a pair op HL-P3: http://customdesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_109&products_id=318&osCsid=a33dec3366e156667ca608cc42933bb7

This stand is very similar to what I am using now. The stand is actually very simple do make in low cost. Hollow metal tube will do.

123teemu
26-03-2010, 07:53 AM
In all these years I have never had any negative comments on the finish, just delight at the sound.

Perhaps I was just unlucky. Attached is a picture of the SS XF stands that I received. They were of slightly different heights, did not stand level and nothing in the stands even lined up (as can be seen from the picture to some extent) The construction really was poor (and cheap) IMVHO - just poorly welded steel and a bit of spray paint (that was already bubbling and chipping away) from a can as far as I could see.

Br,
Teme

http://www.pbase.com/teme/image/117551407.jpg

hifi_dave
26-03-2010, 11:15 AM
Well, that's a strange one. Whilst I wouldn't pretend that they are finished as well as some of the large production stands where finish takes precedence over sound, the Something Solid stands are nicely presented. I have no idea what that is in your photo but the construction and finish is nowhere near as good as the ones I have seen, used and sold over many years. The layout of the rods, the quality of welding and finish is rather inferior. The SS stands are hard baked enamel and not spray paint. That pic looks suspiciously like a home made copy. What a shame.

David Schalkwyk
26-03-2010, 07:21 PM
I take Alan seriously when he says that you could play Harbeths on a pile of telephone directories if you like. I've tried a bunch of things from granite to sand-filled steel. At the moment I am most happy with Ikea Oddvar bathroom stools. Cost? $13. They're wood, open-frame and sturdy. Try them. If you don't like them you can put them in the bathroom and look for something more esoteric.

David

honmanm
26-03-2010, 08:24 PM
Also on the budget front, I'm using Rega Kyta stands (strategy: buy Kytes with stands on ebay, keep stands and re-sell speakers). These stands seem to work well with top plates removed... with top plates on there is a slight metallic "aftertaste" in the upper midrange which had me worried until it was traced back to the stands. I've not compared with other stands and while I'm sure there are better stands out there, right now there is nothing to complain about.

123teemu
27-03-2010, 10:44 AM
I have no idea what that is in your photo but the construction and finish is nowhere near as good as the ones I have seen, used and sold over many years. The layout of the rods, the quality of welding and finish is rather inferior. The SS stands are hard baked enamel and not spray paint. That pic looks suspiciously like a home made copy. What a shame.

I bought these from a UK retailer and they were sold to me as genuine SS stands. When I saw them I thought there were poor copies as well. If that is indeed the case, it would be nice if someone with genuine SS stands could post some pics of their stands, also closeups.

Br,
Teme

hifi_dave
27-03-2010, 11:36 AM
I'm waiting for the manufacturer to get back to me about these stands. I reckon they were a knocked together prototype because, as I say, every pair I have seen are far better made and finished. Also, as they are made in a jig, every pair has the same dimensions.

I'm afraid the technology to post pics is beyond me but I do know that several HUG members are using Something Solid.

luca1967
11-04-2010, 01:53 PM
These are my selfmade stands: http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/1941/immagine290.jpg
made by tubolar iron and painted shiny silver.The speakers are supported on four aluminum cones,even these DIY.

groovybass
25-04-2010, 06:39 AM
I recently picked up a pair of Compact 7ES-3's on Audiogon. This is my first Harbeth experience, so I didn't have the right stands. Amazingly, I had them on folding chairs and they sounded great. Since I'm less interested in spending huge sums of money on stands these days, I picked up a pair of Ikea Bosse stools - $25USD each. They're 18" tall, which lined up the tweeter perfectly and they sounded like crap. I couldn't believe it - they weren't the same speakers that sounded so wonderful on the folding chairs. After a few confused moments, I grabbed one of the legs of the stools while music was playing and a significant amount of vibration was being transmitted to the stands. I decided to try something to decouple the speakers from the stands - I ended up using 3 layers of soft foam used to line kitchen cupboards and the sound is transformed! Before the foam, they sounded shouty, confused, lacking bass, awful - after the foam, they sing and everything is balanced. I'm shocked and amazed, but the moral of the story for me is to decouple, decouple, decouple - in my mind this is much more important than the choice of stand. Enjoy!

A.S.
25-04-2010, 07:39 AM
Interesting. When I said telephone directories I was hinting that the losses (another word for damping) amongst all those sheets would be beneficial. As you say from your own experiments.

Many of us here use Skylan stands, hand made in Canada by a one-man business. Noel Nolan is one of those truly decent people that one cannot spend enough time with - but, as he'd admitted to me after I've loosened him up a bit with a few drinks, hand making the Sylan stands, painting them, packing them one by one and arranging shipping whilst answering the phone, emails and faxes is far, far too much for one man. That's why we receive occasional emails asking us to hurry him up - but if we call him on your behalf it actually slows him down! A tricky problem.

A suggestion - trapped here in Hong Kong with time on my hands I wonder if I should make some enquiries with Noel whether he would allow me to act as his agent and try and find a local source who could make a Harbeth/Skylan approved stand, with our joint blessing, to relieve him of at least some of the immense seven-day-a-week burden. Providing that such a stand was indeed made properly, properly QCd and packed, on a sensibly short leadtime, approved by Noel and myself, would it be of interest?

Just a thought.

Alan /Hong Kong

Labarum
25-04-2010, 07:58 AM
Sorry you are stuck in Hong Kong, Alan. Hope your not sleeping on an airport floor.

I am interested in a pair of small Harbeths for a flat we have just bought in Southampton, but now I have retired from the Army we will be spending most of the time in a bungalow in Cyprus. My wife inherited it and it needs a lot of work. I shipped here my MB Quart floorstanders which I drive with a refurbished Quad 405-2. When I bought said speakers over 20 years ago I asked about spikes (all the rage in UK then and now). The shop said "Don't bother." When I asked about uneven floors I was told to cut up a tennis ball and use it for padding!

Now, for the first time these Quarts are sitting on an uncarpetted wooden floor - I might have to try that. It is amazing, hower, how much bass reaches my feet through the floor. Never had that experience before!

Or I could try a telephone directory - Nicosia Yellow Pages - that would protect the varnish when the floor is mopped, but the paper would get soggy!

What do you think Alan?

EricW
25-04-2010, 08:07 AM
A suggestion - trapped here in Hong Kong with time on my hands I wonder if I should make some enquiries with Noel whether he would allow me to act as his agent and try and find a local source who could make a Harbeth/Skylan approved stand, with our joint blessing, to relieve him of at least some of the immense seven-day-a-week burden. Providing that such a stand was indeed made properly, properly QCd and packed, on a sensibly short leadtime, approved by Noel and myself, would it be of interest?


Alan /Hong Kong

Definitely of interest - it makes very good sense. Maybe if the "standard' models could be produced by a contractor, it would free Nolan up to manage the business and perhaps do custom orders only.

A.S.
25-04-2010, 09:19 AM
Definitely of interest - it makes very good sense. Maybe if the "standard' models could be produced by a contractor, it would free Nolan up to manage the business and perhaps do custom orders only.Yes, my thinking too. It's not nice to see a good friend so stressed (my words, my perception) because he can't wear the two simultaneous hats of being a good administrator and a good hands-on maker. I'll talk it through with him.

hifi_dave
25-04-2010, 07:14 PM
The various constructions and materials in stands give varying results. I have found over the years that the Something Solid stands give me the pace and lack of colouration that I prefer.

These stands are designed for the rapid dissipation of energy via coupling the speaker to the stand and thence to the floor. Any attempts at decoupling the speaker with Blu Tak, Plasticene, rubber, foam, Sorbothane and all sorts of materials I have tried, make the sound slower and fat. Horses for courses !!!

tozen
27-04-2010, 10:13 AM
I am still searching for some great stands for my P3ESR's. Any thoughts? Something Solid have been recommended a few times, but I just don't think I could live with them from an aesthetic point of view.
So any other thoughts? They need to be solid, well built, reasonably attractive and obviously bring out the best of the P3ESR's. And available in the UK as well...

hifi_dave
27-04-2010, 11:30 AM
Thing is, if you need a stand that sounds good, there are very few that do the job nowadays. Most of the specialist stand makers have given up since the fashion in GB turned to matchstick sized floor-standers. So you are left with two that I know of - Partington and Something Solid.

Both of these make good sounding but (perhaps) aesthetically challenged stands. The Something Solids do have the advantage in being constructed from relatively small section steel and are nowhere near as obvious as some of the others.

tozen
27-04-2010, 12:26 PM
Yes, it's a shame that there is so little choice here in the UK. I agree that sound must be the priority - it would just be great if it was possible to find something that was aesthetically pleasing as well! It seems that the popularity of Harbeth and perhaps Spendor classics in the US and Aisan markets means that there is much more choice over there when it comes to stands for BBC-heritage speakers.

KT88
27-04-2010, 01:11 PM
Has Foundation come up with a stand yet for the smaller Harbeths? I have a set under my Monitor 30's and they sound and look great. As a dealer, perhaps you could help us out on this one, hifi_dave?

tozen
27-04-2010, 01:41 PM
Hi KT, I don't think those are available in the UK... I do like the simple structure and clean lines though.. something like that for the P3 would be great

P.C.
27-04-2010, 05:01 PM
Isn't Solidsteel available in the uk? the SS-7 ( or the lower SS-6) stand would be perfect for the P3ESR. With such a tall stand the tripod design should help stability quite a bit. I believe the top 'plate' can be customized to fit any speaker size. http://www.solidsteel.it/scheda.php?lingua=eng&codserie=&codpro=21

ryder
27-04-2010, 05:15 PM
Thing is, if you need a stand that sounds good, there are very few that do the job nowadays. Most of the specialist stand makers have given up since the fashion in GB turned to matchstick sized floor-standers. So you are left with two that I know of - Partington and Something Solid.

Are Atacama and Target still around?

tozen
27-04-2010, 06:13 PM
Thanks P.C.... I hadn't come across those before. They look interesting. Apparently no UK distributor though!

hifi_dave
27-04-2010, 08:46 PM
The Solid Steel stands and racks have been imported off and on - we did them for a while but they were ferociously expensive. We sold a few racks but the speaker stands weren't popular because of the styling - 'theodolites' was the usual quip. I don't believe there is an importer just now.

tozen
28-04-2010, 12:52 PM
Thanks for the info everyone... mmm... maybe I need to reconsider those Something Solid stands! Alternative would be to go down the custom route which is obviously more pricey.

123teemu
28-04-2010, 05:21 PM
maybe I need to reconsider those Something Solid stands!

It'd still be interesting to see some pictures of a pair of "properly" finished Something Solid stands...

I love my Music Tools stands (www.musictools.eu) and they sound good to me (they were purpose built/designed for the LS3/5a so I guess this is no surprise).

One manufacturer that I've seen nice quality finish from is Custom Design (www.customdesign.co.uk), which I believe are based in the UK. The do both high mass as well as open frame stands (plus custom stands to order!).

Br,
Teme

hifi_dave
28-04-2010, 06:38 PM
Thanks for the info everyone... mmm... maybe I need to reconsider those Something Solid stands! Alternative would be to go down the custom route which is obviously more pricey.

Pricey and you have no idea what they will sound like until they are made.

bullethead
22-05-2010, 01:28 AM
I had previously posted that I had Foundation Speaker stands. Well after the left Harbeth tipped over (luckily all is fine, thank heavens) I decided to spend the money on really good stands. The Foundation stands really were flimsy, and considering I spent around $4,000 US on the Compact 7-ES3's (about 2 months pay) I decided to save up the money and purchase better ones. They weigh around 140 pounds between the both of them, and are pre-filled with proprietary filling, sealed and have done well so far. I did spend around $800 US on the stands from US based company (Made in the US State of Florida) which makes custom Harbeth Stands called Sound Anchor http://www.soundanchors.com/.

I live in New York, USA so I don't know about the overseas distribution. I'm sure you could arrange something if there's no dealer in your area.

garmtz
22-05-2010, 01:20 PM
These Sound Anchor stands do look very heavy, which is not always a good thing with the Harbeth speakers IMO. I ordered a custom stand, made by Custom Design and they are extremely stiff, but quite light. They feature a paint that reduces ringing. I spikes them directly into a solid wooden floor.

@hifi_dave: can you tell me how Something Solid couples the speakers to the stands?

Double D
22-05-2010, 03:14 PM
I had previously posted that I had Foundation Speaker stands. Well after the left Harbeth tipped over (luckily all is fine, thank heavens) I decided to spend the money on really good stands. The Foundation stands really were flimsy, and considering I spent around $4,000 US on the Compact 7-ES3's (about 2 months pay) I decided to save up the money and purchase better ones. They weigh around 140 pounds between the both of them, and are pre-filled with proprietary filling, sealed and have done well so far. I did spend around $800 US on the stands from US based company (Made in the US State of Florida) which makes custom Harbeth Stands called Sound Anchor http://www.soundanchors.com/.

I live in New York, USA so I don't know about the overseas distribution. I'm sure you could arrange something if there's no dealer in your area.

I have been thinking about swapping out my Foundation stands for my Monitor 30's for the custom one that SoundAnchor makes for it as well. Something about the Foundation stand just gives me the "nerves".. While I know that light and rigid are supposed to "rule the day" with Harbeths in general, the Foundation stands just seem perhaps tooo far the other way.
Do you have any thoughts about the difference in sonics after you swapped from the Foundations to the Sound Anchors ? that would be very helpful. As you pointed out, while they are "bullet proof" they aren't exactly beer and pretzels money.

bullethead
22-05-2010, 05:10 PM
I have been thinking about swapping out my Foundation stands for my Monitor 30's for the custom one that SoundAnchor makes for it as well. Something about the Foundation stand just gives me the "nerves".. While I know that light and rigid are supposed to "rule the day" with Harbeths in general, the Foundation stands just seem perhaps tooo far the other way.
Do you have any thoughts about the difference in sonics after you swapped from the Foundations to the Sound Anchors ? that would be very helpful. As you pointed out, while they are "bullet proof" they aren't exactly beer and pretzels money.

Yes, watch out with the light thin stands. Indeed the Sound Anchors are not beer and pretzels money, however the sound difference is quite noticeable. I noticed now with the Sound Anchors lack of boomy bass (The Foundations would basically transmit the bass down into the floor causing boom). This has been reduced substantially with the introduction of the Sound Anchors into the system. It's dead quiet, I only hear the speaker, instead of the stand vibrating. Because of this the midrange is even more forward and silky. Highs are much more revealed, while bass is tight and quick. With the other stands the sound was basically unnatural and distorted due to the coloration caused by vibration.

John Geisen
22-05-2010, 06:16 PM
Sound and Bullethead,

I'm a dealer for all Sound Anchor, Foundation, and Skylan in the U.S. I have had success with all three stands and try to allow the customer to choose based on his preferences.

The Foundation stand is designed to follow the open top and European style. It can be damped by putting material in the holes where the feet are threaded. I have not done this so my comments are based on an undamped stand. I find the sound of the Foundation to be very open with lots of detail and quite engaging. At the same time I do not notice a lack of bass. I never thought of the possibility of your speakers getting knocked over, but I'm sure it is possible.

The Sound Anchor is a very heavy stand with an open top as well. It is designed for the person who wants to place his speakers and forget about tweaking as this is not possible. They are do not ring due to the built in damping. Some customers feel the weight of the stand (and the use of damping material) over-damps the speaker. I have not noticed this in my room but it definitely sounds different than the Foundation stands. One customer returned his Sound Anchor's claiming, "It sucked the life out of his Harbeth's". Still it is a very nice stand. Both the Sound Anchor and Foundation stands come assembled and ready to use as soon as you open the box and attach the feet.

Many customers like Skylan. While you need to assemble Skylan stands yourself it takes a total of less than 30 minutes and is kind of fun. It also allows you to adjust the amount of damping to your room and personal tastes. Adding damping also increases the stability of the speaker. This stand does not have an open top. Some people hesitate to purchase Skylan stands since Harbeth speakers "breath" and they feel the flat top may have a negative effect on this. I have not noticed any drawback due to the top. One of the nice things about Skylan is that Noel (the designer and manufacturer) comes at no extra charge. He spends a lot of time helping his customers. This is not to say the other manufacturers don't care about their customers; I just noticed that Noel works at helping and being available with ideas before and after the purchase.

So, there you have it. Two stands from Canada and one from the U.S., with different design approaches and likewise different sonics. Prices range between $500 and $800 USD. I believe all can be purchased direct or through your favorite dealer. There are many alternatives to these 3 stands from smaller companies that make your stand once they receive your order - to making your own. We have seen some very nice work on this blog form do-it-yourselfers. To me, they all sound different. What you prefer and how it makes you feel while you are listening is what matters most.

John Geisen

Don Leman
22-05-2010, 06:58 PM
Good post John. I should be very helpful to those trying to decide which way to go. I would like to add however the most recent version of the Foundation stands are an improvement over the original. If you had to assemble your Foundation stands you have the original design. It is important to adjust the spikes or feet properly so the stand is level and stable before mounting the speaker. A small amount of blue tak will help to keep the speaker from slipping but only use a very small pea size amount as it could damage the veneer when removed.

Don Leman

John Geisen
22-05-2010, 07:12 PM
Hi Don,

Yes, I was referring to the current version not the former "kit" version of the Foundation stand which I thought was not very good. I like the current version quite a lot. I understand the current version still uses the "kit" for the P3ESR. Not sure if that is an issue?

John

bullethead
22-05-2010, 07:25 PM
Hi Don,

Yes, I was referring to the current version not the former "kit" version of the Foundation stand which I thought was not very good. I like the current version quite a lot. I understand the current version still uses the "kit" for the P3ESR. Not sure if that is an issue?


John, I also had the "kit" version of the Foundation Stands. I was unaware they have improved in quality and increased in cost. That's good news because I wouldn't want anyone else to have the problems like I had with the "kit" version. I didn't use blu-tak, the kit version came with cheap plastic feet to stick on top of the stands, and when I put it together one of the screws couldn't even thread, also the stands were not level when assembled. I also noticed they were made in China and not in Canada (don't know if that's still the case), the former Foundation kit version was horrible IMHO, and whoever made the kit version I bought I would assume lack of QA, a problem I find a a lot with outsourced fabrication.

That said I am happy with the Sound Anchor stands. And about the life being sucked out of the Harbeths with the Sound Anchors, I disagree. Sound is now more realistic as I've posted before. Stands do matter, and each stand does sound different. I would recommend everyone if you can audition before you buy if possible to avoid wasting money like I have.

tozen
22-05-2010, 10:55 PM
Thought folks would be interested to know that the Ikea Oddvar stool (minus seat) seems to make a good stand for SHL5s. Just the right dimensions and good height at 45cm. Came across user on another forum using it to good effect. Price about 7 or $12 per stool!

Supersnake
23-05-2010, 12:47 AM
Thought folks would be interested to know that the Ikea Oddvar stool (minus seat) seems to make a good stand for SHL5s. Just the right dimensions and good height at 45cm. Came across user on another forum using it to good effect. Price about 7 or $12 per stool!

Realistically practical, and it was reported as being used to good effect. I would be proud to claim I paid only that much for it.

Double D
23-05-2010, 02:30 AM
Some good info here for sure, and thanks John for your impression of the 3 stands. I think the ones that I have might be the earlier kit versions. They came with the speakers when I bought them from the gentleman that had owned them previously.
I too have heard other comments about both the Skylan and Sound Anchor stands overdamping the harbeths, but I find it hard to believe that they would "suck the life out of them", and personally, I figure if they overdamped it to that point, they probably wouldn't still be making them for the Harbeths.
In the case of the Monitor 30, I'm kindof wondering which would make the most sense ? I'm getting pretty good results with the Foundation, but.. since I haven't heard them with the Sound Anchor stand, it's an unknown as to what the net effect might be, and it's not like there's a dealer handy to grab a pair to try.. $800 on the 4 post version is a fair bit of money these days, although part of me thinks the 3 post variant is the one that will end up working a treat with the M30.
Anyone have experience with the Sound Anchors (3 post variant) on the M30 ?

Champion
23-05-2010, 11:51 PM
Hi Alan and others,

Besides the fact that it may not look great, is there any sonic drawback to have the stand wider than the speakers e.g. putting a Compact 7 on the Ikea stand (13" wide)? Should I avoid doing that? I think using a wooden stool as the stand is quite a good idea, low cost and stable. But a stool as narrow as the C7 is hard to find and may not be stable anyway. Thanks.

skylan
24-05-2010, 11:18 PM
Hi Champion,

Having the stand wider that the cabinet is usually not too much of an issue, but if the cabinet is placed back to to the center of the stand and there is a few inches showing at the front then this will cause a step and may add a bit of uneven Bass, as the Bass driver will have a little choke and it needs no interference around the driver. If the wooden stool is taller than 20" for your speakers then just cut off a few inches off each leg. You can also purchase Spike kits online or from a local dealer and this will allow you to level and steady up the stand.

If you or other Harbeth users would wish to use Blu-Tac to hold you cabinets on your stands I would suggest to first place a Removable Paper Label, (Office supply) on the bottom of the cabinets and then have the Tak come in contact with the label. this way when you remove the cabinet you wont be pulling directly on the Veneer or Paint finish as the label should let go, just remember the Label has to be a REMOVABLE and they are used in stores as temporary price tags and can be peeled off objects.

Cheers,
Noel.

John Geisen
25-05-2010, 03:39 AM
Hi Double D,

Thanks. I appreciate your comments. Not sure how the Skylan would over-damp the speakers since they have very little mass until you fill them. Noel would have a better idea regarding the specifics of damping the stands using kitty litter or rice. Also, the comment of "sucking the life out of his speakers" came from a customer. I believe I said I didn't necessarily agree. As for the three legged Sound Anchors, I have a customer who purchased a pair for SHL5's and really liked them. Later he upgraded to M-40's (not current 40.1's) and decided to go with the bar stools since the added height was about perfect. I believe Noel also helped him with some ideas which he much appreciated.

John

Astroalex
30-06-2010, 12:07 AM
My Harbeth M30 Domestic are sitting just on the same Atacama SL500 you have and I am going to fill them up with river-sand tomorrow to mass-load them. Somebody tried to puzzle me with things like "it's better to use different amount of sand for each column of the the stand to avoid the reverberation of just one frequency, or to avoid to stop the bass too much". I'm not going to do it because I think that a good speaker doesn't need a stand's echo to sound a good bass! Therefore I will do the same way I think you did: same amount of sand for each column, filling them up.
Ciao
Astroalex

hifi_dave
30-06-2010, 04:08 PM
To my ears, all Harbeth speakers sound best on light, rigid, open frames but if you already have Atacama stands I would strongly advise you do not completely fill the tubes with sand or whatever. To me, this deadens and slows the sound too much. Start at a 1/4 fill and go on if you feel you need to.

Drdennis
01-07-2010, 01:20 PM
I agree with the above post. I am very happy with the sound of lightweight stands, and amazed with the depth and quality of bass I have 22" (with spikes) stands that I have owned for 25 years. The stands are branded Morel, and designed to work with the 2002 model speaker. The speakers are still in production, but I do not know if the stands are still available. There are two angled uprights, attached to a bass that all seems to be made of MDF. The top plate is metal, and slightly smaller than my Compact 7's. They are about 3" smaller in each dimension, resulting in about a 1 1/2' overhang on all sides.

Does anyone think I would benefit from a larger top plate? The bottom is wider, so they appear, and are quite stable. The plate would probably fit the M 30's perfectly! Thanks for the above suggestion to use paper labels to protect the bottom of my speakers from Blue Tac.

hannah-ham
30-08-2010, 06:16 PM
Did anybody think about a Do it yourself Replica of the Sound Anchor stands out of wood? I made some scheduling and I think it should be possible to make a wooden, but also very solid stand with nearly the same design.

Regarding the top section I am not sure so far: top plate or only a connection by 4 timberjoints?

KT88
30-08-2010, 08:33 PM
I've made a wooden (oak) replica of the Epos open frame stand for my Monitor 30's-they're rigid and work really well. I carry my 30's around to different places in the house and use Foundation stands (open frame, lightweight steel) in one location and the wooden ones in another location. Overall, I prefer the Foundation stands, which were specifically designed for Harbeths (they make one for each model), but it's not a night and day difference.

P.C.
31-08-2010, 04:48 AM
Thought members might like to see a new rather stylish stand thats become available in the US specifically for Harbeths (M30s and 7es). Look rather nice but possibly a little pricey?. I think I'd try to make my own first. http://www.austinhifi.com/waynetaylor.html

KT88
31-08-2010, 02:13 PM
Hey, Phillip!

Interesting design, but way too fussy for my tastes. I wonder... if you hooked a wire to them and connected it to your tuner, would you get good reception?

Labarum
31-08-2010, 03:02 PM
Not my taste. Why put a fine piece of furniture on top of a pile of welded together coat hangers?

P.C.
31-08-2010, 04:49 PM
I agree too fussy. but a good reception guaranteed!. Personally I prefer my Skylans, both visually and for the fact that I can mass load them.
I don't feel completely comfortable with such a top heavy solution that light frames give (I have boisterous dogs!). My favorite lightweight stand however is this one.

Don Leman
31-08-2010, 05:50 PM
Definitely not my cup of tea.

Labarum
31-08-2010, 08:18 PM
In UK these are very good value

http://www.sightandsounduk.com/product.php?productid=6949

and these cost rather more

http://www.superfi.co.uk/index.cfm/page/moreinfo.cfm/Product_ID/5864

kittykat
31-08-2010, 10:51 PM
Great for spider web enthusiasts. :-)

KT88
01-09-2010, 03:58 AM
Hey, Phillip

How are the speakers suspended in these stands? Are they clamped or what?

P.C.
01-09-2010, 05:16 PM
KT88, I originally posted about the 'cradle' stand on post #99 on this thread (mod can you link to this post for me?).

I don't own one but its based on the ones designed for the discontinued Rehdeko speaker. A google image search will show some examples. The speakers sits against one bar running along its bottom front edge and one that runs across the speakers back near its top, this gives the speaker the extra security from ever toppling over which is what i like about its design . For me thought its still creates a too top heavy solution.

Moderator's comment: Sorry but we do not have the facility to add hyperlinks in moderation......}

timber715
28-12-2010, 04:10 PM
Planning to get my first pair of Harbeths soon (C7ES3) and have been reading on the discussion here. Seems decoupling the speaker from the stands produces the most significant sound quality giving the speakers walls enough room to resonate.

So I am in the process of making my own out of Mahogany... It should more or less look like this (still a work in progress though)... sorry for the badly taken picture though.

http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0738.jpg
comments and suggestions are very much welcomed and preferred...
btw, they are made to match the audio rack I made too...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0668.jpg

Sebastien
28-12-2010, 08:51 PM
Nice project timber715! I also made my own stand for my SHL5. I used some recycle carton. They sell this in large quantities and you can make some base for bed, shelf, bookcase, etc.

Sebastien

timber715
28-12-2010, 09:31 PM
Thanks Sebastien, been woodworking for two to three years and I find pleasure in learning new things... like what makes a good stand for Harbeths...

BAS-H
29-12-2010, 12:36 AM
Thanks for sharing, Timber715. Always good to learn of others' stands they use. They will look very handsome and perform very well, I have no doubt.

Ben

STHLS5
29-12-2010, 02:04 AM
Hi Timber, the racks are gorgeous. Did you put the adjustable spikes under the feet?

timber715
29-12-2010, 04:15 PM
Hi Timber, the racks are gorgeous. Did you put the adjustable spikes under the feet?
I recently finished that rack, the spikes were ordered and should arrive early feb 2011. Yes, they are adjustable... and thank you for the compliment, took me about 150 hours work on it. made space for the spikes and hopefully it arrives soon.
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0666.jpg
I just hope someday my gears would improve too...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0682.jpg

timber715
29-12-2010, 04:24 PM
sorry I missed to answer the question, no, there are no spikes intended on the rack feet, but that is a simple add-on just in case...

delgesu
29-12-2010, 05:41 PM
hi,

the stands for my new 40.1 arrived today. they are custom made from light pinewood etched in pale rosewood tint. Each 40.1 sits on 4 small "sandwiches" of anti rubber foil + blu tack (the blu tack has NO contact to the veneer. hope you like it. the sound of course is gorgeous.

http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/2751/harbeth4016.jpg
http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/3060/harbeth40111.jpg

best,
delgesu