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HUG - here for all audio enthusiasts

Since its inception ten years ago, the Harbeth User Group's ambition has been to create a lasting knowledge archive. Knowledge is based on facts and observations. Knowledge is timeless. Knowledge is human independent and replicatable. However, we live in new world where thanks to social media, 'facts' have become flexible and personal. HUG operates in that real world.

HUG has two approaches to contributor's Posts. If you have, like us, a scientific mind and are curious about how the ear works, how it can lead us to make the right - and wrong - decisions, and about the technical ins and outs of audio equipment, how it's designed and what choices the designer makes, then the factual area of HUG is for you. The objective methods of comparing audio equipment under controlled conditions has been thoroughly examined here on HUG and elsewhere and can be easily understood and tried with negligible technical knowledge.

Alternatively, if you just like chatting about audio and subjectivity rules for you, then the Subjective Soundings sub-forum is you. If upon examination we think that Posts are better suited to one sub-forum than than the other, they will be redirected during Moderation, which is applied throughout the site.

Questions and Posts about, for example, 'does amplifier A sounds better than amplifier B' or 'which speaker stands or cables are best' are suitable for the Subjective Soundings area.

The Moderators' decision is final in all matters regarding what appears here. That said, very few Posts are rejected. HUG Moderation individually spell and layout checks Posts for clarity but due to the workload, Posts in the Subjective Soundings area, from Oct. 2016 will not be. We regret that but we are unable to accept Posts that present what we consider to be free advertising for products that Harbeth does not make.

That's it! Enjoy!

{Updated Nov. 2016A}
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Amplifier selection for your Harbeths (general, not specific Harbeth models)

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  • #16
    Hello Mr. Parkyn,

    Here's a glimpse of my current set-up:

    Speakers: Harbeth M30s
    Amplifier: Plinius SA100/3 (100 watts per channel; pure class A solid state)
    Preamplifier: Plinius M16L (solid state)
    Room: 16 x 20 x 9 feet (with the speakers ~8 feet apart on the long wall, ~6 feet into the room)

    I have had this set-up for several years now and am absolutely delighted with it. I feel no urge or need to upgrade. Music is the name of the game as far as I'm concerned, and my M30s sing to me every single day. I have very eclectic tastes when it comes to musical genres, and have no preferred format?I listen to vinyl, cassettes, CDs, DVD-As, DADs, and SACDs.

    Kind regards,

    Robert Lantin

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    • #17
      Speakers: Super HL5
      Amplifier: Blue Circle BC24 (85wpc class AB tube hybrid)
      Preamp: Blue Circle BC3000 (tube)
      Room: 19.6 x 12.1 x 7.5 speakers 5.5 ft apart along short wall 5 ft into room

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      • #18
        M40's driven by Audio Research VT 100 MKIII (100wpc tube) amp through Alpha core MI2 Divinity single wired.
        Gary D

        M40's, ARC VT!00 MKIII, LS25 MKII, Meridian 508-20

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        • #19
          Nap 250-2 with the SHL-5s.

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          • #20
            HL-P3ES-2 's driven by a Manley Stingray intergrated amp - 45 watts.

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            • #21
              C7-2s driven by an EAR 890 70wt tube amp in a small room (10.5 x 13x8ft). A Plinius SA50MKIII also worked very nicely but I've been a tube guy for over 20 years and probably won't change. I use a Joule Electra LA150MkII tube pre-amp which is from a small USA company.

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              • #22
                In the last year I purchased a pair of HL-P3ES-2's and bought the
                Manley Stingray Int. amp @ 45 w per channel. My listening
                room is medium size and I am extremely happy with volume level.
                Sound is wonderful - especially after I replaced the two 12AT7 pre amp
                tubes with NOS telefunken's. Cant get much better!

                Comment


                • #23
                  Driving My Harbeth's

                  I'm using an ARC 100.2 (100wpc solid state) amp and a SP16 (tube) preamp. I previously used a Naim 140/62/Hicap. The improvements brought about by the ARC electronics was substantial. I'm driving Compact 7ES's. Lovely.

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                  • #24
                    I have a bias toward tubes and use EAR 890 tube amp for C7-2s. The Harbeth dealer I spoke w/ however, tried to steer me toward SS saying Harbeths are designed with SS and made to sound best that way. I always try my own thing, though, and the EAR works very well.

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                    • #25
                      I just remembered this. I friend in St Louis, USA, heard C7-2s being driven by Lamm 18 wt SETs ($20,000.00 a pair!) and said the volume and dynamics were excellent. He and two other people heard no indications the speaker was being underpowered. But then, I think the Lamms are designed to be high current devices. I always make careful consideration of transformer type when considering a tube amp. That is why I've owned 2 Air Tights.

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                      • #26
                        An Arcam AVR300 drives my Compact 7ES-2. Channel 6 and 7 are used for bi-amping. Very nice.
                        Last edited by lasseolsson; 04-02-2006, 06:47 PM.

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                        • #27
                          M40
                          Hovland HP-100 preamp
                          Symphonic Line Kraft 250 amp
                          Lector 7 CDP
                          Roksan TMS/Triplanar VII/Shelter 901
                          Oritek X-1/X-2 interconnects
                          Anti-cable speaker cables(single run)
                          Last edited by Steven Yu; 04-02-2006, 08:42 PM.

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                          • #28
                            Getting the best out of your system [amps, stands, accessories, cables]

                            I am running C7-2s with an EAR 890 tube amp but had this same problem with a Plinius SA50III and Air Tight ATM2. When I drive the volume a little high (but not anywhere near headbanging high) an upper midrange glare becomes evident on things like saxes, piano, female vocals, electric guitar. I back off the volume and things are fine. Again, this happens at moderately high volume, no where near high volume. Has anyone else had this experience and could it be related to the metal dome tweeter? I see it's crossed over at around 2500 hz which is about where the "bit" comes in, maybe a little higher. I've tried other equipment (except speakers) and get the same problem. Only items I haven't swapped out are the speaker cables which are TG Audio silver wire. Might be the silver wire interacting with the metal dome tweeters as I have to admit not being a fan of metal transducers. Thanks in advance, people.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by alanshaw
                              Are you really sure that EL34 is capable of 30W? I do not know anything about tube amps but I have a feeling that EL34 is of lower power - maybe 15W?
                              Many push-pull EL34 amps are rated around 30W. I have used an AMC CVT3030a with these valves, rated at 30W.

                              Perhaps you are thinking of the EL84, Alan? It is a smaller, lower power valve, used in amps like the Leak Stereo 20.

                              Ian

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by tomryan
                                I am running C7-2s with an EAR 890 tube amp but had this same problem with a Plinius SA50III and Air Tight ATM2. When I drive the volume a little high (but not anywhere near headbanging high) an upper midrange glare becomes evident on things like saxes, piano, female vocals, electric guitar. I back off the volume and things are fine. Again, this happens at moderately high volume, no where near high volume. Has anyone else had this experience and could it be related to the metal dome tweeter? I see it's crossed over at around 2500 hz which is about where the "bit" comes in, maybe a little higher. I've tried other equipment (except speakers) and get the same problem. Only items I haven't swapped out are the speaker cables which are TG Audio silver wire. Might be the silver wire interacting with the metal dome tweeters as I have to admit not being a fan of metal transducers. Thanks in advance, people.
                                I doubt cables are the problem.
                                Do you use any room treatments at the first reflection points?
                                Speakers stand type/height?
                                What is your source equipment?
                                Have you tried driving them with a solid state amp with at least 100 wt/channel?

                                I powered my Monitor 30's with an EAR 534(50 wt/ch.) which is very similar to the EAR 890 and really enjoyed the results.

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