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Since its inception ten years ago, the Harbeth User Group's ambition has been to create a lasting knowledge archive. Knowledge is based on facts and observations. Knowledge is timeless. Knowledge is human independent and replicatable. However, we live in new world where thanks to social media, 'facts' have become flexible and personal. HUG operates in that real world.

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Questions and Posts about, for example, 'does amplifier A sounds better than amplifier B' or 'which speaker stands or cables are best' are suitable for the Subjective Soundings area.

The Moderators' decision is final in all matters regarding what appears here. That said, very few Posts are rejected. HUG Moderation individually spell and layout checks Posts for clarity but due to the workload, Posts in the Subjective Soundings area, from Oct. 2016 will not be. We regret that but we are unable to accept Posts that present what we consider to be free advertising for products that Harbeth does not make.

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Cables for your Harbeths (general, not specific Harbeth models)

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  • #16
    Re: Cables for your Harbeths (general, not specific Harbeth models)

    I didn't get the Harbeths in Cape Town. I ordered them from Alan, unheard and unseen (!) I am very, very pleased with them. There are high-end shops in Cape Town, but they're very much for audiophiles... I doubt many people would appreciate Harbeths.

    As for Stellenbosch, I went to university there. I fear you're right about the housing developments, alas. Contact me on your next visit if you like. I'm on the University of Cape Town website.

    Greetings

    David

    Comment


    • #17
      Re: What are you missing?

      Hi Frihed89,
      You're right... it was my amp. I just change to Lavardin IS Ref and now I am enjoying the fuller tight bass note!

      Enjoy the music...

      Originally posted by Frihed89
      And are you sure it is due to the cables? It may be due to almost anything else in your system, even your speakers. So make sure these notes you don't like are within the freq. response of your speakers.

      Comment


      • #18
        what jumper do you replace with?

        Hi,
        Anyone replace their brass jumpers that came with the Harbeth? What do you replace with?

        Comment


        • #19
          Re: Cables for your Harbeths (general, not specific Harbeth models)

          I replaced them with Audio Note Lexus jumpers, sounded bright for me, so took them off, still using brass jumpers.

          Comment


          • #20
            Re: Cables for your Harbeths (general, not specific Harbeth models)

            I tried the following (diy):
            1) twisted copper wire(2-4 single 24ga from cat5 cable)====bright
            2) twisted silver plated wire(2-4 single 26ga )======bright
            3) twisted pure silver wire(2x 28ga )=======better
            4) single 28ga pure silver wire=======a lot better,but still bright on some of my recordings.

            I am still trying to get the best possible combination.

            Comment


            • #21
              Re: Cables for your Harbeths (general, not specific Harbeth models)

              Originally posted by wlmdx
              I tried the following (diy):
              1) twisted copper wire(2-4 single 24ga from cat5 cable)====bright
              2) twisted silver plated wire(2-4 single 26ga )======bright
              3) twisted pure silver wire(2x 28ga )=======better
              4) single 28ga pure silver wire=======a lot better,but still bright on some of my recordings.

              I am still trying to get the best possible combination.
              Hi Friends, some help please!

              Ok with provided jumpers, but anyone to comment on bi-wiring, I mean to have any experience with it?
              I use Kimbers 8TC (two pairs of 3m each), having removed jumpers but I don't have -at my age- that good an ear to get the difference from changing to mono-wire set of 8TC (length of 2m. each) that I have as spares, and tried them with jumpers on, of course.
              Is there any kind of listening difference or crossover behaviour between this two modes? Any comment/experience very helpful
              Thanks,
              Thanos

              Comment


              • #22
                Re: Cables for your Harbeths

                Originally posted by Soundbyte
                Hi Thanos,
                Thanks for repying are you saying that it is no difference from Nordost Red Dawn and Monsters Cable at the same price range? Is the treble note clear? How is bass note for the Kimber 8TC? Are you still using them?

                Thanks for your help.

                Cheers.
                Hi Soundbyte, sorry for delay in reply.
                The Red dawns came a little "thin" in bass Vs the 8TCs. Still came a bit more coherent in mono-wire Vs Kimbers bi-wired as to the overall presence and especially in mids & highs. With 8TC mono-wired, both sounded very close. But to terminate/ change lengths to Nordosts is an even worse nightmare than to do the same with Kimbers (also a pain in the ass). The Monsters (M1 -I don't have them anymore in main system-see below), were good- no weaknesses overall- but when I critically listened to 8TC, I found a very big soundstage with bass to die for, and without cloud covering the mids-highs. That's why I use it. I estimate that single-wire with WBT careful termination (bananas on both sides), no more than about 2m. each side, will give you standard fine results. Don't forget that 8TCs are excellent values for money and fine allrounders -especially if you change your amps- sources, whenever. Of course, If you want to pay less, go for a Monster low price M series speaker cable and combine with Interlink 400 inteconnects. You won't regret... I use this combo to my 2nd system -vacation house- and is really good. Changed 3 different systems with various componenets, the Monsters were always very good with all. Currently working with Luxman 2 X 75wrms transistor integrated, Philips CD 750, TEAC cassette deck, Sony tuner, Technics 1200 turntable and B&W P6 speakers. Some say that this humble system sometimes makes my main expensive system (Harbeths+McIntosh+Meridian+Nakamichi+Techniks gold 1200/Shure v-15) to win ok, but with sweat and tears...
                Hope I gave a little help,
                Regards,
                Thanos

                Comment


                • #23
                  Re: Cables for your Harbeths (general, not specific Harbeth models)

                  I never try bi-wiring with the Compact 7 but I did tried with my previous speakers that I sold(polk lsi15) before the Compact 7. I liked it better(sound smoother) without bi-wiring that's why I hesitate to try it on my Harbeth.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Re: what jumper do you replace with?

                    Originally posted by wlmdx
                    Hi,
                    Anyone replace their brass jumpers that came with the Harbeth? What do you replace with?
                    Replaced the brass jumpers in the SHL5's with KIMBER Select KS-9033 Jumper cable and am using Kimber Monocle XL speaker cable with spades. Everything sounds just great.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Re: Cables for your Harbeths (general, not specific Harbeth models)

                      I use Monster Cable MCX-2S speaker cable. I have removed the brass plates from the binding posts of my Harbeth Super HL5, cut of a little piece of my speaker cables, fitted gold spades (Monster Cable Quick Lock) and connected these jumpers to the binding posts. The main speaker lead is fitted with banana-plugs (Monster Cable Quick Lock) and is connected to the lower of the two binding posts (as is recommended in the Harbeth manual).

                      The improvement in sound is obvious, although not earth-shaking. The gain is in the details, the quieter background and (at low listening levels) the richer sound . It is important to keep the "jumpers"as short as possible.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Re: Cables for your Harbeths (general, not specific Harbeth models)

                        As we know, Alan Shaw strongly disagrees with any claim that the brass jumpers can be improved upon.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Re: Cables for your Harbeths (general, not specific Harbeth models)

                          As we all know, the center of the problem is if we really get any improvement by experimenting wtith such short lengths and materials. I believe that there is a difference on bi-wiring vs mono-wiring. Why? Because ther must be different crossover behaviour & function. The jumpers must be of lesser significance to this...
                          I hope Alan will comment on this,by explaining the role of "this ot that way" or with "such or such" jumpers. Really, any audible change should be recognizable instead of imaginative.
                          Regards,
                          Thanos

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Re: Cables for your Harbeths (general, not specific Harbeth models)

                            This is a reply to the earlier post from wlmdx about experimenting with various wires. You give the wire gauge numbers and I am wondering if there has been a mistake. Are you describing interconnect wiring (line level) or loudspeaker wiring (power level)? The gauges numbers you quote, 24 and 28 gauge are suitable for use at line level between equipment but not suitable as loudspeaker wire. You need minimum 14 gauge for speaker wire, preferably 12 or 10 gauge for speaker connections. The difference will be most apparent at low frequencies due to the high resistance of long pieces of thin wire the amplifier will no longer have normal control of the woofer that takes place with normal low resistance (thick gauge) speaker cables.

                            Ted Rook M30s USA

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Re: Cables for your Harbeths (general, not specific Harbeth models)

                              Originally posted by Thanos
                              Really, any audible change should be recognizable instead of imaginative.
                              I don't believe in snake oil, dogmas and fundamentalism.
                              I don't use scientific measuring equipment.
                              I just experiment and follow my ears. Because my ears are my only measuring equipment. I decide that something works for me (or not) by listening and not based on theory, magazines, commercials or whatever.
                              I read hifi-magazines, because they keep me informed about the latest news in the business, but I never buy anything without hearing it first.

                              The difference between brass plates (or brass covered tin plates) and jumpers that are made of real loudspeaker cable, was demonstrated to me by a friend (on loudspeakers from a different brand).
                              So I went home and started my own little experiment.

                              1) First I listened to my SHL5's with the standard plates.
                              2) Then I replaced the plates with a set of (low cost) jumpers that I borrowed from a local HiFi-dealer. I heard almost no difference.
                              3) Then I replaced the plates with the jumpers, that I made from my own speaker cables. The difference was not enormous, but certainly worth the effort.
                              4) So after a few more tests, including blind tests (with help from my friend), I decided that the combination of a speaker cable and jumpers that are made from the same speaker cable gives the best result for me.

                              I hear an inprovement in the sound quality and I like it. I only posted it as information for other members. Maybe someone can use it, maybe someone thinks it is complete nonsens. I don't mind. Everybody is entitled to their own opinion. But don't lower yourself to the level of innuendo by writing that my conclusion may have been imaginative. It is NOT.

                              I quote the Harbeth manual on cables: "... so we'll leave that for you to explore ...".

                              On the subject of wiring methods, the Harbeth manual says that "We recommend the standard 'single-wiring' connection method as this is the simplest, safest and quickest method of connecting your amplifier ...".

                              So, although Harbeth prefers single-wiring, there is a bi-wiring terminal on the backside of the speakers. Why do you think that is? Because some people like bi-wiring or even bi-amping and others don't.
                              Harbeth provides speakers with terminals that allow different connection methods.
                              Harbeth may have a certain opinion on connection methods, but doesn't impose it upon the customers. Otherwise there would not have been a bi-wiring terminal.

                              You can experiment and decide for yourself, what configuration you like the best. This also implies, that other people can come to different conclusions. So be it. It's only human.

                              Let's use this Harbeth user Group to exchange information and experiences and let's not abuse it to judge each other.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Re: Cables for your Harbeths (general, not specific Harbeth models)

                                I think this amplifies my personal feelings of "live and let live" and I endorse the sentiment.

                                Where I start to have doubts is where the consumer is persuaded that in exchange for significant sums of money, huge sonic improvements can be achieved. But when one is playing for beer-money (as illustrated here) what have you to loose - and you may well gain.

                                As for biwire or not biwire terminals, my feeling is that that argument has probably run its course over the past nearly 20 years and arrived at exactly 50% for and 50% against the idea. Future Harbeths will (probably) revert to a single pair, reducing assembly time, cost and contact resistance.
                                Alan A. Shaw
                                Designer, owner
                                Harbeth Audio UK

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