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Since its inception ten years ago, the Harbeth User Group's ambition has been to create a lasting knowledge archive. Knowledge is based on facts and observations. Knowledge is timeless. Knowledge is human independent and replicatable. However, we live in new world where thanks to social media, 'facts' have become flexible and personal. HUG operates in that real world.

HUG has two approaches to contributor's Posts. If you have, like us, a scientific mind and are curious about how the ear works, how it can lead us to make the right - and wrong - decisions, and about the technical ins and outs of audio equipment, how it's designed and what choices the designer makes, then the factual area of HUG is for you. The objective methods of comparing audio equipment under controlled conditions has been thoroughly examined here on HUG and elsewhere and can be easily understood and tried with negligible technical knowledge.

Alternatively, if you just like chatting about audio and subjectivity rules for you, then the Subjective Soundings sub-forum is you. If upon examination we think that Posts are better suited to one sub-forum than than the other, they will be redirected during Moderation, which is applied throughout the site.

Questions and Posts about, for example, 'does amplifier A sounds better than amplifier B' or 'which speaker stands or cables are best' are suitable for the Subjective Soundings area.

The Moderators' decision is final in all matters regarding what appears here. That said, very few Posts are rejected. HUG Moderation individually spell and layout checks Posts for clarity but due to the workload, Posts in the Subjective Soundings area, from Oct. 2016 will not be. We regret that but we are unable to accept Posts that present what we consider to be free advertising for products that Harbeth does not make.

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{Updated Nov. 2016A}
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Coupling Harbeth to the Stand

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  • #16
    Re: Coupling Harbeth to the Stand

    Hi all,

    Precaution, one of my friend told me he had very bad experience with the non-slip mats which will stain and cause a lattice pattern on the veneer over time.

    Cheers~~
    "Bath with Music"

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    • #17
      Re: Coupling Harbeth to the Stand

      Hi all,
      I've been using Herbie's fat dots, 3 per skylan stand. It's a very inexpensive tweek that sounds
      better than the furnished neoprene corner dots, and much better than blu tak.... plus, they are easy to experiment with, being taller than the furnished skylan dots.....

      Comment


      • #18
        Re: Coupling Harbeth to the Stand

        Big news, I've been debunked by my listening panel!

        Actually, they at first preferred small oak buttons between speaker and stand over the Herbies Big Dots. Then I tried the 3 magnets per stand that Noel and his friend Moray thought to be great, which when I first tried them I didn't think too much of them. Well, to debunk my debunkers, I placed them as Noel detailed, one on each rod and one in the back middle, with black electricians tape over them to snug them down. Instantly the clarity level went through the roof, and the bass much better, as Noel claimed. Thanks Noel!

        If you have Skylan stands you definitely owe it to yourself to try it.

        Take care
        MQ

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        • #19
          Re: Coupling Harbeth to the Stand

          These are the stands you need next.... I little expensive though!
          http://www.positive-feedback.com/Iss...tic_revive.htm

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          • #20
            Re: Coupling Harbeth to the Stand

            Would be lovely, I'm sure....
            at least they solved Jeff Day's 40.1 dilemna.....if only I could have such a dilemna....

            Comment


            • #21
              Re: Coupling Harbeth to the Stand

              Originally posted by musicquest View Post
              Would be lovely, I'm sure....
              at least they solved Jeff Day's 40.1 dilemna.....if only I could have such a dilemna....
              Hi All,

              What about those half-ball shaped silicone pads, self adhesive but non surface spoiling, small sized, that they use to put them in/on shelf edges (you know, anti-slipping, against noise and preventing wood to wood direct contact).
              They have a very small footprint, think they wouldn't influence the sound...
              I 'm using them 3-4 years now, fitted on the 4 stand edges, not a single problem with stands' or speakers' finish.

              Cheers,
              Thanos

              Comment


              • #22
                I use Acoustech Speaker Dots on DIY stands. You could add an extra Dot at the low spot.
                enjoy,tom

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                • #23
                  Depends on the stands. With some you need to decouple - these are usually mass loaded. With light, open frames you might need to couple, allowing energy to dissipate quickly. The Something Solid stands use carbon fibre pucks on top of the uprights for rapid dissipation away to the floor.

                  Horses for courses. Just experiment but don't lose any sleep.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    I have found White tack preferable to blue tack. Think it is a bit less adhesive, not just different colour. Currently using small blob of White tack on corners of stands, then a little bit of bubble wrap between tack and speaker. Seems to be a combo that works well.

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                    • #25
                      I am Lucho, from Lima, Peru. What about using brass cones for my shl5. I am thinking about it. Whar do you think ?

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                      • #26
                        I use the small half-ball silicon self-adhesive pads as Thanos does. Their diameter is 0,5 cm and the speaker is like floating 2 - 3 mm over the stand. I use 3 of them in every corner (12 per speaker). The speaker is firmly attached by its weight to the stand, doesn't slip and the low frequencies are very good. Tuneful, clear and solid.

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                        • #27
                          Stand insulator

                          I'm using TAOC TITE-13GS between my SHL-5 and Sound Anchor stand for years. It improve on bass and detail too.

                          http://www.taoc.gr.jp/insulator.html#spike

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                          • #28
                            Stand isolators

                            Originally posted by ical View Post
                            I'm using TAOC TITE-13GS between my SHL-5 and Sound Anchor stand for years. It improve on bass and detail too.

                            http://www.taoc.gr.jp/insulator.html#spike
                            Yes, I'm also using them on Skyland stand (old version). The insulator shown is the new version.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              SHL5 - no need to tweak -cannot improve them

                              Originally posted by hifi_dave View Post
                              Just experiment but don't lose any sleep.
                              For the first time in speaker ownership, since using a pair of SHL5’s, ive not bothered about tweaks and improvements, equipment, connections or having to frequently adjust tone controls or volume etc. Imo, I seriously doubt that “tweaking” Harbeths will get them to perform any better, as it appears to sound inherently “right” and that the crucial aspects of making them sound balanced, natural, fatigue free have already been addressed and ready to be appreciated straight out of the box.

                              I am saying this as I have recently been toying with another pair of speakers and just cannot get them to sound right. Im getting up to position them, adjust the tone controls, the volume and am finding myself doing this for almost every different recording!

                              The way the SHL5’s tolerate different volume settings, speaker placement is really quite an achievement, and don’t feel that putting something under it will take it to a whole different level.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                The physics of the stand/speaker interface ....

                                Originally posted by hifi_dave View Post
                                Depends on the stands. With some you need to decouple - these are usually mass loaded. With light, open frames you might need to couple, allowing energy to dissipate quickly. The Something Solid stands use carbon fibre pucks on top of the uprights for rapid dissipation away to the floor.

                                Horses for courses. Just experiment but don't lose any sleep.
                                My problem with this discussion is that I don't understand which energy you are talking about. In my understanding the energy can only come from pressure or movement / friction. At the corners of a box there is almost no pressure and no movement. Ok, there may be some micro vibrations but if there are some rubber dampers or similar then this should be enought to decouple from the stands. The stands itself may be an issue. Ringing in metal stands. But this is not a problem of energy from the speakers - it's a resonance issue. I prefer DIY wooden stands. Nothing to improve in my case.

                                Can you help me to understand better what to mean?

                                T.W.

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