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HUG - here for all audio enthusiasts

At its inception ten years ago, the Harbeth User Group's ambition was to create a lasting knowledge archive. Knowledge is based on facts and observations. Knowledge is timeless, independent of the observer and can be replicated. However, we live in new world in which objective facts have become flexible, personal and debatable. HUG operates in that real world, and that has now been reflected in the structure of HUG.

HUG has two approaches to contributor's Posts. If you, like us, have a scientific mind and are curious about how the ear works, how it can lead us to make the right - and wrong - decisions, and about the technical ins and outs of audio equipment, how it's designed and what choices the designer makes, then the factual Science of Audio sub-forum area of HUG is your place. The objective methods of comparing audio equipment under controlled conditions has been thoroughly examined here on HUG and elsewhere and can be readily understood by non-experts and tried-out at home without deep technical knowledge.

Alternatively, if you just like chatting about audio and subjectivity rules for you, then the Subjective Soundings area is you. If upon examination we think that Posts are better suited to one sub-forum than than the other, they will be redirected during Moderation, which is applied throughout the site.

Questions and Posts about, for example, 'does amplifier A sounds better than amplifier B' or 'which speaker stands or cables are best' are suitable for the Subjective Soundings area. From Oct. 2016, Posts in the Subjective Soundings area will not be spell checked or adjusted for layout clarity. We regret that but we are unable to accept Posts that present what we consider to be free advertising for products that Harbeth does not make.

The Moderators' decision is final in all matters and Harbeth does not necessarily agree with the contents of any member contributions and has no control over external content.

That's it! Enjoy!

{Updated Jan. 2017}
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Question on original 90s Harbeth HL-P3 mid/bass driver

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  • Question on original 90s Harbeth HL-P3 mid/bass driver

    Hi. I'm from Malaysia. I have a HL-P3 from 1990s. Got it from my dad's system as he no longer uses it. This speaker has been with our family since I was still in school. It's very dear to me but recently my faulty amplifier burnt one of the driver unit! I do not want to resign to loose the P3. I've since sent the P3 to Sam of Tropical Audio to take a look but I know not much can be done since the driver model is also obsolete from Seas. But I am determined to revive it.

    I did not however had the chance to open the driver up to see what is the model. Could someone please kindly let me know and what is the impedance of this driver?

    My only option now is to replace it with the current Seas equivalent. I have emailed to Audio Components UK, a very helpful John Bryant has told me the P3 driver is P11RCY/P. Is he correct? He has recommended the closest replacement to the original is Seas CA12RCY.

    Just like to hear advise and opinion from Harbeth on this. Thanks very much in advance.

    {Moderator's comment: the alternative driver you mention will not work at all in the P3. Please don't waste time chasing that dream. The P3's woofer was custom made for Harbeth and includes, amongst other details, a very precise amount of added weight - a few grammes. You would be best advised to fit the woofer from the P3ES2 (we have plenty) which will at least have the same moving mass if not exactly the same acoustic parameters i.e. it will be as loud and not significantly louder than the original. Furthermore, comparing the Seas data sheet you show with the actual P3 woofer - the impedance is wrong (P3 is 4 ohm), the cone material is wrong (P3 is polypropylene not paper), the shape of the chassis is wrong (the P3 has a cut-square chassis , not round). So in every basic way the driver you show would be a terrible choice. Anyway, the current P3ESR is a far better speaker especially for clarity. }
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  • #2
    Thanks

    Thanks for that bit of info. Really appreciate it. My best option now is to see if the driver can be repaired as I have 2 other units with me which was previously changed out ( definitely not burnt ) due to some abnormality.

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