Page 2 of 25 FirstFirst 123456789101112 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 482

Thread: Amplifier selection for your Harbeths (general, not specific Harbeth models)

  1. #21
    tomryan Guest
    C7-2s driven by an EAR 890 70wt tube amp in a small room (10.5 x 13x8ft). A Plinius SA50MKIII also worked very nicely but I've been a tube guy for over 20 years and probably won't change. I use a Joule Electra LA150MkII tube pre-amp which is from a small USA company.

  2. #22
    Halrich Guest

    Default

    In the last year I purchased a pair of HL-P3ES-2's and bought the
    Manley Stingray Int. amp @ 45 w per channel. My listening
    room is medium size and I am extremely happy with volume level.
    Sound is wonderful - especially after I replaced the two 12AT7 pre amp
    tubes with NOS telefunken's. Cant get much better!

  3. #23
    dodgealum Guest

    Default Driving My Harbeth's

    I'm using an ARC 100.2 (100wpc solid state) amp and a SP16 (tube) preamp. I previously used a Naim 140/62/Hicap. The improvements brought about by the ARC electronics was substantial. I'm driving Compact 7ES's. Lovely.

  4. #24
    tomryan Guest
    I have a bias toward tubes and use EAR 890 tube amp for C7-2s. The Harbeth dealer I spoke w/ however, tried to steer me toward SS saying Harbeths are designed with SS and made to sound best that way. I always try my own thing, though, and the EAR works very well.

  5. #25
    tomryan Guest
    I just remembered this. I friend in St Louis, USA, heard C7-2s being driven by Lamm 18 wt SETs ($20,000.00 a pair!) and said the volume and dynamics were excellent. He and two other people heard no indications the speaker was being underpowered. But then, I think the Lamms are designed to be high current devices. I always make careful consideration of transformer type when considering a tube amp. That is why I've owned 2 Air Tights.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    8

    Default

    An Arcam AVR300 drives my Compact 7ES-2. Channel 6 and 7 are used for bi-amping. Very nice.
    Last edited by lasseolsson; 04-02-2006 at 05:47 PM.

  7. #27
    Steven Yu Guest

    Default

    M40
    Hovland HP-100 preamp
    Symphonic Line Kraft 250 amp
    Lector 7 CDP
    Roksan TMS/Triplanar VII/Shelter 901
    Oritek X-1/X-2 interconnects
    Anti-cable speaker cables(single run)
    Last edited by Steven Yu; 04-02-2006 at 07:42 PM.

  8. #28
    tomryan Guest

    Default Getting the best out of your system [amps, stands, accessories, cables]

    I am running C7-2s with an EAR 890 tube amp but had this same problem with a Plinius SA50III and Air Tight ATM2. When I drive the volume a little high (but not anywhere near headbanging high) an upper midrange glare becomes evident on things like saxes, piano, female vocals, electric guitar. I back off the volume and things are fine. Again, this happens at moderately high volume, no where near high volume. Has anyone else had this experience and could it be related to the metal dome tweeter? I see it's crossed over at around 2500 hz which is about where the "bit" comes in, maybe a little higher. I've tried other equipment (except speakers) and get the same problem. Only items I haven't swapped out are the speaker cables which are TG Audio silver wire. Might be the silver wire interacting with the metal dome tweeters as I have to admit not being a fan of metal transducers. Thanks in advance, people.

  9. #29
    Ian Boyd Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by alanshaw
    Are you really sure that EL34 is capable of 30W? I do not know anything about tube amps but I have a feeling that EL34 is of lower power - maybe 15W?
    Many push-pull EL34 amps are rated around 30W. I have used an AMC CVT3030a with these valves, rated at 30W.

    Perhaps you are thinking of the EL84, Alan? It is a smaller, lower power valve, used in amps like the Leak Stereo 20.

    Ian

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tomryan
    I am running C7-2s with an EAR 890 tube amp but had this same problem with a Plinius SA50III and Air Tight ATM2. When I drive the volume a little high (but not anywhere near headbanging high) an upper midrange glare becomes evident on things like saxes, piano, female vocals, electric guitar. I back off the volume and things are fine. Again, this happens at moderately high volume, no where near high volume. Has anyone else had this experience and could it be related to the metal dome tweeter? I see it's crossed over at around 2500 hz which is about where the "bit" comes in, maybe a little higher. I've tried other equipment (except speakers) and get the same problem. Only items I haven't swapped out are the speaker cables which are TG Audio silver wire. Might be the silver wire interacting with the metal dome tweeters as I have to admit not being a fan of metal transducers. Thanks in advance, people.
    I doubt cables are the problem.
    Do you use any room treatments at the first reflection points?
    Speakers stand type/height?
    What is your source equipment?
    Have you tried driving them with a solid state amp with at least 100 wt/channel?

    I powered my Monitor 30's with an EAR 534(50 wt/ch.) which is very similar to the EAR 890 and really enjoyed the results.

  11. #31
    renanj Guest

    Default

    Amplifier: EAR 890 75 w/ch
    PreAmp: EAR 864 with phono stage
    Speakers: M30s
    Subwoofer: Linn Sizmik

    The amplifier drives the M30's easily. I have had the M30s for 4 years now and they are still the best speakers I have ever heard.

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    South of England, UK
    Posts
    4,199

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tomryan
    I have a bias toward tubes and use EAR 890 tube amp for C7-2s. The Harbeth dealer I spoke w/ however, tried to steer me toward SS saying Harbeths are designed with SS and made to sound best that way . . .
    OK let's clarify this one!

    It is true that throughout the design and listening process I use S.S. (solid state = transistor or MOSFET) analogue amplifiers and I have not (ever) used tubes. This is really a matter of practicalities. My equipment in not stationary in one listening room but moved around in the back of the car. For example, at "The Old Dairy" on the farm we have a mini-anechoic chamber, lab and workshop and so on. This is not a good travelling arrangement for tubes.

    Secondly, tube amps start to age from the moment they are turned on for the very first time. Consistency - year in, year out - is actually more important than the fidelity when designing as opposed to listening for pleasure. I know that if I can get a speaker to work well on this modest gear, you will be able to extract a fabulous performance by careful selection of even better tube or S.S. amps; and you have the time to experiemnt. I don't.

    I made a conscious decision to use a certain type of amp some twenty years ago, and I have a stock of them to be sure that I have always one or two available in working order. I have no motivation to change my position - these amps work well. And they are truly the product of a brilliant engineer. (Please don't ask what they are!)

    As for the electrical load (the "impedance curve") of Harbeth speakers, I am acutely consciuous throughout the design process that the load must be benign so that our speakers will work with 99.99% of properly designed amplifiers. Otherwise my phone would be ringing all day long from customers in far flung places seeking my advice. Sadly, my Mandarin is not good enough to hold those sort of detailed conversations.
    Alan A. Shaw
    Designer, owner
    Harbeth Audio UK

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    South of England, UK
    Posts
    4,199

    Default

    Yes, I think you may well be right. I'm getting confused.
    Alan A. Shaw
    Designer, owner
    Harbeth Audio UK

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    South of England, UK
    Posts
    4,199

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tomryan
    ... metal dome tweeter? I see it's crossed over at around 2500 hz which is about where the "bit" comes in, maybe a little higher. I've tried other equipment (except speakers) and get the same problem. Only items I haven't swapped out are the speaker cables which are... TG Audio silver wire. Might be the silver wire interacting with the metal dome tweeters as I have to admit not being a fan of metal transducers ...
    The crossover frequency of the C7 is much higher - about 3500Hz.

    Please don't be dismissive of "metal tranducers". These SEAS units specially made for us are fundamentally excellent transducers, and given the free choice, I would not hestiate for one second to select them for any future application. They are as perfect as you can get.

    Yes, soft domes have a following, but I dare to suggest that if you have had negative experiences with "metal tranducers" that is in fact due to unsympathetic crossover design, not the tweeter iteslf. Of course, from the listener's perspective (i.e. yours as opposed to mine) you would only be able to judge the combination of the crossover + tweeter when you listen, but I can separate them (literally) and judge them independently.

    I am a big fan of properly designed tweeters, regardless of their dome material. The SEAS people are, to my way of thinking, the masters of that craft.

    As for cables - don't wast time and money experimenting.
    Alan A. Shaw
    Designer, owner
    Harbeth Audio UK

  15. #35
    Wiyono Guest

    Default

    Gryphon Tabu AT 80 watt class AB SS Integrated driving M30

  16. #36
    Markhh2 Guest

    Default

    Plinius 9100, Bel Canto DAC2, DH Lab Q10 speaker cables.

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    1

    Default

    I?m driving my C7ES-2s with Blue Circle BC3000mkII/GZpz preamp and BC204 amp (150wpc) and find they compliment each other. My system plays a wide variety of music extremely well, from Bach to Coltrane, to Beatles, to Zeppelin. The music is exciting yet not fatiguing, even at low volume levels. I?m contemplating getting SHL-5s when cash flow permits.

    Attilio

  18. #38
    Chayro Guest

    Default

    Silver cables are bright in general. Harbeths are not a bright speaker by any means. I would seriously consider swapping the cables out for copper. Before getting involved with anything expensive, I would just try some standard 14 gauge speaker wire to see if it makes any difference.

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    British Columbia, Canada
    Posts
    176

    Default

    Just a quick question... Out of interest how do you say SEAS is it like sneeze without the "n" or S E A S with each letter?

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chayro
    Silver cables are bright in general.
    This is a general statement that I do not agree with. I use silver cables throughout my system and it is not bright in the least.

Page 2 of 25 FirstFirst 123456789101112 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •