This thread concerns finding the best stand solutions.
This thread concerns finding the best stand solutions.
Forgive me if I'm wrong but I've heard a lot of people recommending that Harbeth speakers sit on "Skylan" stands.
What's special about Skylan stands?
What other stands are recognized as being good for Harbeths?
I am actually using this stand for my C7ES2 - Atacama SL500 (500 mm or 20") filed with sand to stop the ring sound... I find the bass is good and clean, taut. I guess I like it that way!
Music is not to be denied... is to be enjoyed!
Should Harbeths be toed-in?
Perhaps some models should and other not?
How much toeing-in?
Try to achieve a sweet spot or seek a wider listening field?
Hey, no foot-dragging, let's have an answer!
A couple of weeks ago, there was an exchange between Alan Shaw and myself regarding the use of the IKEA Lak stands that he uses in his home for his HLP3s, as well as in the "factory" for testing. (If that is not accurate, I know I will be corrected).
Now, the other day at a club meeting I proudly mentioned to a local HLP3 owner that I had bought the LAK stands for the HLP3 i didn't own yet. He was not impressed and said, one must use heavy, sand-filled stands to correctly "couple these speakers to the room".
So, either Alan disagrees with this theory or he does agree and they only differ about the "mass" of the Lak, or....?
I have been to the Sound Anchor website, and they have stands for specific Harbeth models. They look very good. I saw a recent copy of Hi Fi+ with a mention of Compact 7s on Sound Anchor stands.
The Lak stands are in the $20-$30 range (depending on height) in Denmark and probably the same in the US. Just what is it these commercial stands improve for the extra $5-600? I think this sort of pricing is outrageous.
If i ever get a manufactured stand it will be "Something Solid" because i think these are really cool looking (and cheap), with their Stirling Moss Bird Cage Maserati construction, compared to Sound Anchor!
I think Harbeths should be toed in, aimed almost directly at the listener. My purpose is to achieve a better sweet spot, not to widen the listening field.
Originally Posted by John Parkyn
I think that to some extent this is room related. If the side walls are welll damped - heavy curtains or book cases for example - then the total HF energy perceived by the listener will be lower, because a proportion is soaked up. In such a situation a toe-in could redress the balance favourably (according to your taste).
Tweeters, like all drive units, produce more energy when firing at the listener than many degrees off axis. I don't think there are any hard and fast rules that will work with all music in all rooms with all speakers. Some music is definitely recorded a bit bright and listening 5 degrees or so off axis may make it sound acceptable.
Surprising though it may seem, I tend not to bother too much about finding the sweet spot when I'm listening. I might be significantly off to one side and that tells its own story about the speakers on/off axis response.
Alan A. Shaw
Harbeth Audio UK
I've gotten excellent results using marble-top "occasional tables" for my Super HL5's. I found them at TJ Maxx (a discount department store) for $25 each. They are quite heavy because of the large slab of marble, and I use small rubber footers between the marble and the speakers. They do an excellent job, and the bass quality and extension in my high-ceiling living room is outstanding, as is the rest of the audio spectrum. As has been stated elsewhere, the Harbeths speak "with one voice", and crossover points are undetectable with seemingly perfect integration of the Radial driver with the metallic tweeters (an amazing feat). The main tweeter is almost exactly at ear-level when seated in my listening chair. The stands also look quite attractive, and I use another one as a side table for my listening chairs.
Has anyone experimented with any interface between the speaker and the stands? I recall a thread sometime back touching on this subject. I found that using various volumes of blu tac actually does alter the sound. I have not had any success with various commercial footers like isonodes,vibrapods etc and was wondering if any of you had some valuable insights to this inexplicable realm. This experimentation can be ardous and time consuming and your feedback would be much appreciated.
First of all, hi everybody, I'm a newbie here, this is my first post; my name is daniele and I live in Italy (so please forgive my English...).
I'm not a Harbeth owner -not yet. But I guess I'm going to be quite soon; I've listened to Monitor 30s and they sounded... ok, you know how they sounded, plenty of reviews 'round here. I just say their sound seems to be all I'm looking for.
Actually, I don't know if this is the right forum to post this thread; the question is about how to couple speakers to the stands: my dealer suggested the 'classical' blue taks, but I read somewhere it can damage the speaker itself and the sound as well.
What's true ?
If you don't use blue taks, what do you use ?
Speaker stand coupling depends on what kind of stand you are using. To my experience, smallest amount of blue taks may work for metal stand, but not necessary so for wood stand. I use relative hard carban fibre cone myself for my wood stand, it sounds more transparent than bluetaks and other soft coupling I've tried.
BTW, I have a pair of open flame Something Solid XF stand on order, will share with you all how does it sound comparing to my current wood stand.
I've used blue-tack for years, mostly on smaller speakers. My M30's are so heavy I don't think it's necessary. And yes, I would worry that blue-tack could take some of the finish off a speaker. I haven't had it happen to me, but I have had stands damaged by the stuff, so I've stopped using it altogether.
But as I said, I don't believe M30's really require 'attaching' to a stand.
Hi Alan and all,
after Alan's suggestion, at less than 30 Euros, for my Compact 7ES-2 I've used with satisfaction for some months the Ikea Lack wood stand. But you know we always want to upgrade and the look also need an improvement so I've started again to search for a dedicated wood stand, I'm not interested in metal ringing or sand filled stands.
I've discovered the perfect wood stand for the C7, the GUIZU BWS-7. It measure 315*273*490, the base is exactly the same as the speaker.
No ringing problems, if you look at the photo also no baffle problems and the top base is opened. No one could ask for more.
The link is http://www.guizu.com.cn/ujkt/a/a4.htm
The measure and the model name suggest maybe they've designed it exactly for the C7.
Alan did you know nothing about that?
I suggest you to use a wood stand so you don't have to worry about ringing cabinet, sand fill and interface.
Start with the Ikea lack stand or if you have money check www.guizu.com.cn wood stands.
With my Ikea Lack stands I've discovered that no blue tac, felts, or any vibrapods, isonodes, etc. is better than gently put the speaker on the nude top base.
When I'll received the already ordered Guizu BWS-7 I'll post a review if anyone is interested.
I have used open top wood stand before. It was good in general, but the bass misses last bit definition and dynamic is slightly soft. Installing some carbon cones between speaker and stand help a bit but not totally resolve.
Now the wood stand was replaced by Something Solid XF stand, it is light mass open frame steel, no rang at all. The bass definition and dynamic was back.
Hi Kevin,Originally Posted by kevint
of course you know final results depends on interaction between all components, considering you've tested with good equipment and placement, can you please tell me which open top wood stand and speaker combination isn't successful?
IMHO Ikea Lack wood stand closed top are better than some expensive metal closed top stands. I haven't used Skylan or SS XF but with the Ikea I wasn't able to achieve a better sound inserting something between the stand and the C7 speaker.
I'm sure there are good metal stands or maybe some are even better than most wood one, but my goals are to avoid any potential ringing, baffle, sand filling/mass loading problems and to look better (in my WAF room) than my Ikea Lack and most metal stands, Skylan and SS XF included.
I've had difficulty to find wood stands in general, but with the Guizu "on paper" the goals are all met and the search is over, I can't imagine to ask for more.
I hope 'll try it soon.
Agree the final result depends on interaction of all components. I did not tell any inadequacy of SS XF may be just because I did not spend enough time as I did for my previous wood stand.
Anyway, I found most soft materials like bluetak or felts do not work well for wood stand. You may try some harder cones to interface your spk to stand. I found polymer or carbon made cone from Clearlight Audio and Black Diamond Racing work quite well for wood stand.
Is that the "bird cage" space frame design?
When I first bought my SHL5s, the dealer recommended the 20" Epos open-frame stand, which cannot be filled. In spite of the fact that the stands are "too high and too ringy", the speakers sounded magnificent. A few months later, I felt I should have the "proper" stands and ordered 18" Skylans. They sounded good, but I made several electronics changes after that and I sort of forgot about the stands and accepted them as a given in the system. At some later point, I felt the system was sounding a bit dull, but I believed it to be something in the electronics.
By chance, a friend of mine changed his speaker stands and loaned me his 24" ringy, metal Sound Organisation stands, which I tried, knowing they are both "too high and too ringy". Guess what? The speakers sounded far better, IMO. Piano notes had better transient attack and everything sounded much more lifelike in my system.
My point is this - I'm not saying that one stand is better than the other or that one material is better than the other. I am saying that the stand material and the distance from the ground will make a significant difference in the balance of the speaker and should be experimented with. If you believe your system is on the dull or boomy side, consider raising them on a higher stand. Frankly, I think my dealer was right - those Epos 20" are a great choice. Thanks.