Harbeth Monitor 40.1 specific

[Eric Pitschmann]

Alan, now that you have returned from THE show and production has (hopefully?) begun on the M40.1, can you provide an approximate time of when we will see the first batch of M40.1's in the USA? Here's hoping for a fantastic 2008 for you and Harbeth!

Eric
(patiently, but eagerly, awaiting in frigid Cleveland)

[skinhead]

YouTube interview with Alan moved here

(Thanks to this member for finding the interview on-line).

[chord]

Alan,

Since M40.1 has been launched already, why is the M40 page in Hi-Fi Speaker section not updated yet?

[A.S.]

It has been. But not on this version of the site.

[DMAudio]

Eric, I may be your closest Harbeth dealer. We are located in the Detroit area. I'm hoping to have a demo pair in a couple weeks. Fingers crossed. Your certainly welcome for an audition.

[Eric Pitschmann]

Hi, thanks for the offer, but I actually have a pair of the M40.1' s on order since last spring (with the same dealer that sold me my M30's four years ago). Hence my anticipation for the launch of the M40.1 into actual living rooms!

[eelekim]

What's "SuperWide? stereo separation" that M40.1 presents?

[harbethpr]

Here is the latest advert for the Monitor 40.1, from Hong Kong.

[Ferdinand777]

Hi Allan,

Does the M40.1 have provisions for tri-wiring ? not that I would want one. Or is it just a single speaker post like the new C7es3s ?

Regards
Ferdinand

[A.S.]

The M40.1 is 'single wiring' that is, it has one pair of rear terminals (red and black) just like the C7ES3.

I have consistently said here for many years that in my opinion, bi or tri-wiring brings no sonic advantage (to my ears) nor does it degrade the sound. But it does add to customer confusion and the potential for damage to an amplifier (or amplifiers in a multi-amp arrangement) if wires are inadvertently shorted. Multi-terminals were added by me about 20 years ago for one reason alone - customer choice, and looking across the industry I believe that most suppliers felt that way too. But the potential for confusion seems to exceed the flexibility so now is the time to simplify, and to legitimately save cost at a time of rising material prices.

I note with some surprise that some others have promoted their return to single-wiring as a rediscovery of the benefit to the consumer of 'enhanced sonic quality'. This is disingenuous coming from their their previously strong advocacy of the benefits of multi-terminal wiring. Our position has always been neutral.

[Ferdinand777]

Thanks Alan, that's good to know on the single wiring for the M40s.

[Jmohd]

Hi Alan,

I'm thinking of upgrading my speakers from SHL5 to M40.1. My room size is about L5.1m x W2.9m x H2.7m. and is treated with acoustic treatment. Is the M40.1 suitable for my room size?

Thanks

[skinhead]

Wow bro so fast ya.. If the 40.1 do arrive in your house, I'm sure your wife will be even more worried than u bringing a mistress home

[Jmohd]

Wow bro so fast ya.. If the 40.1 do arrive in your house, I'm sure your wife will be even more worried than u bringing a mistress home

Bro, year end bonus is coming

[gemincor]

Dear Alan,
I note your previous comment that the height of the speaker stands is not really as critical as some would say. I am about to acquire the 40.1s and need to fabricate suitable stands. Is there any sonic implication if the stands were to be made out of solid steel as compared to hollow elements filled sand, lead or any other material? Is there such a thing as an absolute minimum stand height below which detrimental interactions would occur between the bass driver and the floor?

Kalani

[A.S.]

Good question.

Every speaker definitely does have a 'reference axis' that is, a point vertically where the signal from the bass/mid driver and the tweeter arrive together at the ear. You can't tell where this is vertically just by physical examination of the speaker. You have to measure the frequency response to seek out that point where the system will be flattest with an equal contribution from the mid driver and tweeter in the crossover region and around it.

Because the midrange driver's voice coil sits deeper into the cabinet than the tweeter's, you can imagine that an equilateral triangle drawn from these voice coils to the ear would have equal lengths only when the mic (or ear) was at one place vertically. And if the mid drive is deeper in the cabinet than the tweeter, that point would be way down nearer the floor - agree?

However, our customers don't sit on the floor they sit with their ear somewhere near the tweeter - right? - so that I have adjusted the timing of the signal fed to the tweeter so that the tip of the equilateral triangle is pulled upwards, reaching the ear about the same distance above the floor as the tweeter's dome is. From memory, the M40.1 reference axis is on or even above the tweeter's physical middle so that is where you should sit for optimum sound.

As for construction - well damped is the key. Wood is naturally fairly well damped. Metal can be made well damped with the addition of a damper such as lead or sand, poured inside. But in truth, the metal stands we've made for the BBC over the years are not filled, do have a definite pitch when hit, but no professional sound engineer has ever complained. So it must be a relatively small issue or not one at all.

Maybe I should do a little talk-through demo of this drive unit integration issue?

[Greggo]

Alan,

Congrats on the 40.1, it's just plain brilliant and my wife and son both shared in my "love at first listening" experience recently here at Fidelis AV in New Hampshire, USA. I have been poking around the hi-fi scene off and on for many years now, travel all over the country on business and hit all the hi-fi shops to pass the time, and nothing has ever grabbed me like the natural quality of pure music you have engineered into the 40.1.

A few quick questions:

1) Wouldn't there also be an ideal distance from the speaker as well as height upon which the driver/phase integration is as close to perfect as possible? Would be very interested in your follow up on the exact height in relation to center of tweeter or top of cabinet upon which you based your axis integration point between tweeter and mid, and also at what distance, or range of distance, from front of cabinet that this integration is most ideal.

2) Thinking of pairing the 40.1 with a Pass INT-150, a very robust 150 watt/ch minimum into 8ohms, and wondering if I would have to ride the volume control carefully or if the 40.1 is comfortable handling that kind of power and playing at realistic or bigger than realistic volumes (I like to shake the room every now and then)? I have read much on how to find the right balance between too little power and just enough power, how about at the other end of the spectrum? Any way you could help me characterize the range of "more than plenty of power" to the undesirable "too much power" in terms of watts/ch at 8 or 4 ohms (or 6) and/or Spl levels in room?

Again, nice speaker.... so understated in appearance and apparent design on the surface (a slight twist on the classic 3-way), yet so uniquely competent in it's capabilities and the magic in it's communication.... I guess you can tell that I like them, very much so. I won't even bother to list the esteemed makes/models that you have left devasted in the wake of your execution of the 40.1, well done.

Regards,

Greg Jensen

[ANADA]

Hi!! My new Monitor 40.1 finally have arrived.Any suggestions for amplification.. how many good watts shoud i need to power these monsters..

[A.S.]

What amp do you have available? The M40.1 is an easy 6 ohm electrical load. I'm confident that it will work with any amp in proper working condition. How much power any loudspeaker needs depends upon ...

a) the size of your room
b) how close you sit to your speakers
c) how loud you like to listen
d) how much power reserve you like to have available
e) what type of music you listen to
f) electro-acoustic efficiency of speaker (most speakers have about the same efficiency)
g) how low impedance of speaker and at what frequency i.e. is speaker an easy electrical load?

... so no easy answer. But surely 100W will provide an extremely loud sound (dangerous for your hearing if you always listen at that loudness) and 10W only a small sound. But your selection entirely depends upon a, b, c, d, e, f, g above. Considering a-g and applying some common sense, I'd say in my normal room, listing at a normal distance, to music of normal energy a sensible minimum amp power would be about 30W/channel. But I'd feel much happier with a minimum of twice that - say, 50W. Personally, I like to drive a car at 2000 rpm knowing that there is reserve engine power available if I need it; I don't feel comfortable having to hammer a small engine at 4500 rpm for the same road speed. Small engines and small amplifiers working hard "red-lining" are surely prone to failure, and such failure could damage the speakers.

Remember: the amplifier only gives the speaker power according to the setting of the volume control. You set the volume control; you have command over the amplifier. If you have a 50W amp and you set the volume control low, maybe the amp only lets the speaker have 1 or 2W of power keeping 48 or 49W in reserve.

The M40.1 (as indeed all Harbeth's are) was designed and listened to with my standard 100W + 100W transistor amplifier throughout the design period. That amp is serviced every few years just to be sure it's in spec.. During normal listening at a moderate loudness of say, 80dB, I'd estimate the amp is only delivering about 2-10W to the speakers.

[ANADA]

Dear Alan, Thanks for you're response. (It never crossed my mind that you will be answering this question!! and this was my first post..) I have read most of the treads concerning amplification because before M40.1 i had the M40s.

I remember that the same answer was given by you in a similar question it was something with a Bentley... i recall....I fell that most of the people using Harbeths will be tempted once in while to turn the volume up and try to see how loud there whole system can play but i feel that most of us like to come back home and listen to some nice music and at the same time play with our kids, write our email,or just relax.

Now my question to you is what kind of amplifier will play best! under normal!!! circumstances, in a typical room, a small 30watt A class integrated, a 30W tube push - pull or a big pre power combo say 100W?.

I am writing all this because most of the dealers where we buy our Harbeths try to sell us stuff which they also stock in house!! and nothing more. Furthermore by reading all the media coverage concerning M40 and m40.1 there is a clear distinction. M40 was power hungry and M40.1 is better in that area. Many people in the sites say Harbeths work best with Sugden, LFD,Leben etc.

I don't feel that you have to answer this question and promote one or the other, but at least in a private contact - conversation, customers should have some suggestions from you're client service regarding amplification synergy. Thanks a lot for you're time.