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Feb. 2018
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Homemade Stands For SHL5

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  • Homemade Stands For SHL5

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    I wonder if the HUG would permit showing off these new stands my Dad and I made last week in his workshop. Made from scrap oak left over from a garden fencing job, planed, thicknessed and routed, and joined with tenon and mortises. I got the inspiration from the Linear II stands by Resonant Woods. Levelling feet are 40mm wooden balls threaded with M8 stud. On the tops are simple self adhesive clear vinyl tabs.

    Ben
    Ben from UK. Harbeth Super HL5 owner.

  • #2
    What a great use of 'leftover' materials Ben to make a really lovely pair of stands for your Harbeths. Something to be very satisfied about.

    Can I ask whether the stands are placed on a carpeted or non carpeted floor (difficult to see from the photo) and whether there is any difference in using the wooden balls as opposed to the more normal spike method.

    My P3ESR's sit on Something Solid stands and are spiked through a reasonably flat piled carpet into a solid concrete floor and I have been considering whether it is advisable to decouple my stands from the floor as there is a certain amount of 'reverb' if you tap the (solid steel) stand because it is so connected to the floor below.

    If Hi-Fi Dave is reading this: David, are the SS Missing Link feet stable enough under the stand on a carpeted surface?

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    • #3
      Hi Mike,

      First, thank you for your kind words. Definitely wouldn't have achieved anything like this standard without Dad! (An engineer; I'm a nursing assistant(!) However, he did let me do most of the work after being shown how to use the planer-thicknesser, circular saw, chop saw, router and milling machine. Thrilling and very satisfying.

      I can answer your questions with absolute certainty! I too had the P3ESR with the Something Solids once, spiked to the floor, and I know exactly what you mean by 'reverb'. When coupled to the floor with spikes, SS stands ring at their resonant frequency. This is noticable from the listening seat. To hear it, play a talking book, loud. When a phrase of speech stops, you can hear the ring. It disappears on decoupling. You need no specialist feet, unless the appearance of the Missing Links is important to you. 1" discs of scrap wood (or anything) under the four corners, directly onto carpet, are all that is required (the spikes can be removed).

      My stands are on a carpeted floor. I now live in a static caravan, wooden construction, with a large skirted void under the floor. The last thing I need to do is couple anything to it! Hence the ball feet, not spikes. In fact, I personally cannot notice or see any reason why spiking could be beneficial under any circumstances. I've lived in many homes with various floor types and simply can't fathom any purpose to them. They make moving the stands difficult and they wreck your floor. However many people do notice a difference and of course, the theory of snappier bass when your speakers are effectively bolted to the centre of the earth is sound. I just can't hear it.

      The first thing I would do in your circumstances would be to ditch the spikes. Or at least, sit 'em on tuppences.

      Enjoy your experimenting!
      Ben
      Ben from UK. Harbeth Super HL5 owner.

      Comment


      • #4
        Congratulations on your new stands, Bas-H, and especially on building them with your Dad. I recently had very similar looking stands (though shorter) made by a woodworking friend, using Cherry wood, for my M40s. In my opinion, wood is an excellent material for stands. My stands sit on a tile floor (just off the carpeting); I've put a soft interface between the stand and the floor, and a soft interface between the speakers and the stands.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by BAS-H View Post
          The first thing I would do in your circumstances would be to ditch the spikes. Or at least, sit 'em on tuppences.

          Enjoy your experimenting!
          Ben
          Ben, many thanks for your very complete reply to my query.

          I am going to ditch the spikes for the very reasons you mention and will certainly not worry myself or be filled with any angst as to whether the sound has altered in any way (which I doubt it will anyway as long as the stands are levelled on the carpeted surface). I'm glad to say that because of my Harbeth speakers and this forum I am fully 'reformed' now from 35 plus years of the audiophile gravy train and feel all the better for it.

          Mind you, I have been thinking for some time now about getting the dedicated Hi-Fi Racks solid oak stands (they were originally my first thought before SS) as I feel that they might do a better job in isolating and deadening any unwanted feedback and are far more pleasant to look at in a living environment.

          Best regards, Mike

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Ned Mast View Post
            Congratulations on your new stands, Bas-H, and especially on building them with your Dad. I recently had very similar looking stands (though shorter) made by a woodworking friend, using Cherry wood, for my M40s. In my opinion, wood is an excellent material for stands. My stands sit on a tile floor (just off the carpeting); I've put a soft interface between the stand and the floor, and a soft interface between the speakers and the stands.
            Thanks Ned. Sure would have liked to have seen a pic of those.

            Originally posted by MikeM View Post
            ...I'm glad to say that because of my Harbeth speakers and this forum I am fully 'reformed' now from 35 plus years of the audiophile gravy train and feel all the better for it....
            Me too!
            Ben from UK. Harbeth Super HL5 owner.

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            • #7
              Posting photos is no doubt easy for some, but not for others (such as myself)! Getting posted on tinypic. is doable, but getting from there to HUG is another matter.

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