• Welcome to the all-new HUG. All content has been converted from the old system, and over the next days we will re-style HUG in a more familiar way.

Painting P3ESR in white

mirekti

New member
I understand this might sound crazy to many, but I have an issue with my better half who simply stated she would only accept the speakers if they come in white.
The wood veneer is something she considers extremely ugly.

So, the go around this I have an idea, but not sure how much impact would it have to the sonic presentation of the speakers. The idea is to buy a P3ESR in maple and paint it with the two or three coatings of white color. I would probably give this task to someone who is more familiar in wood restoration. I understand I would loose the warranty, but this is a risk I am willing to take. I am not aiming high gloss white, but something with just a touch of gloss.

Questions:
1.) Would the maple finish be a good candidate for such endeavor?
2.) What type of color should be used?
3.) How many layers of coating should be allowed without impacting the sonic quality?
4.) Any other suggestions/comments, if any?

Thanks a lot!!!
 

Jeff_C

Member
I'd have a look at the M20.1 professional monitors in matt grey finish and paint those white. I think they are the same as P3 esr but I may be wrong. someone else may verify this.
 

Milosz

Active member
They are the same but the M20.1 are fitted with professional Speakon connectors as standard, so it may be a problem for a home user.
 

hifi_dave

Well-known member
Speakon connectors are available from Radiospares in the UK and I have seen them on E-Bay.

BTW, I like it that comments now appear right away.
 

acroyear

Active member
hifi_dave said:
Speakon connectors are available from Radiospares in the UK and I have seen them on E-Bay.

BTW, I like it that comments now appear right away.
The issue wouldn't be the availability of cables themselves but the amplifiers available with speakon outputs are pretty much only pro power amplifiers. I imagine most home audio users are not going to be using pro power amplification.

EDIT:As JeffC notes you can get speakon terminated wires with a different connection to the amp.
 

Jeff_C

Member
If the M20.1 is a better starting point for painting white than a wood veneered cabinet, then I would make up some speaker cable with 'Speakon' connectors one end, and banana plugs or bare wire connections for the amp end. Personally, I always prefer bare wire connection, but like Alan said in his post below there is no audiophile angst relating to cables in the professionals habitat.

http://www.harbeth.co.uk/usergroup/forum/the-harbeth-company-brand-then-and-now/user-feedback-likes-praise-comments/2924-saturday-night-network-tv-with-harbeth-in-the-studio
 

Milosz

Active member
Jeff_C said:
Personally, I always prefer bare wire connection,
Same here, but I cover last few centimeters of the bare wire with a thin layer of tin, purely for practical reasons.
 

mirekti

New member
Thank you very much for all the comments. M20.1 will be the choice than. Regarding the Speakon, I don't thing this is a big issue as I don't plan on using some crazy expensive cables. I will probably make my own cables and as already suggested put this http://www.parts-express.com/amphenol-sp-2-fn-loudspeaker-cable-connector-2-pole-metal-shell-blue-sleeve--092-0170 on one end of the cable.

My biggest concern at the moment is what type of color should one use in order to affect the speakers' sound as little as possible.
Obviously, the work will be done by some professional, but I will need to guide him(her?) what is allowed and what is not allowed.
 

Jeff_C

Member
I think no more than two coats will be needed, and I doubt it would impact the sound in any way. As for the actual finish the choice will be yours. There will be a need to take great care over masking up the drive units and screw heads If the speakers are going to be spray painted. The original matt grey finish will likely need lightly sanding down to give a key for your choice of finish to adhere to (with more light sanding after the application of the first coat if more than one coat will be needed). As your satisfaction is going to important I would discuss your expectations with any professional who is likely to become engaged to do this work, and see samples of his/her work.

All in all, I think I would be more inclined to change the wife, than the finish on a brand new pair of Harbeth's - ONLY KIDDING
 

mirekti

New member
Jeff_C said:
There will be a need to take great care over masking up the drive units and screw heads
My plan was to remove the drivers and screws. This would only be done once so I assumed this wouldn't do much harm.

Jeff_C said:
All in all, I think I would be more inclined to change the wife, than the finish on a brand new pair of Harbeth's - ONLY KIDDING
I would have do it, but in the current case I kind of understood her taste and comments related to wood veneers. :)
 

hifi_dave

Well-known member
It would be a relatively easy matter to cover the front baffle of the speaker with card and tape to protect it from any paint. Far better that than to remove the drivers. What ever you do will negate the warranty, though.
 

mirekti

New member
hifi_dave said:
It would be a relatively easy matter to cover the front baffle of the speaker with card and tape to protect it from any paint. Far better that than to remove the drivers. What ever you do will negate the warranty, though.
I am aware of voiding the warranty, this is not an issue, but not sure if it will be possible to address following in case the front baffle and radial driver are not removed.



Maybe it would be wise to unscrew those side screws half way, protect the heads and do the job.



Any idea how to remove this and put it back?


...for some reason I am not authorized to insert the attachments so here is a link to jpegs on Dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ncyb55wofigxqfo/AABqBQditEgKTSI1rsJ_6YTXa?dl=0.
 

MikeM

Active member
mirekti said:
I am aware of voiding the warranty, this is not an issue, but not sure if it will be possible to address following in case the front baffle and radial driver are not removed.



Maybe it would be wise to unscrew those side screws half way, protect the heads and do the job.



Any idea how to remove this and put it back?


...for some reason I am not authorized to insert the attachments so here is a link to jpegs on Dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ncyb55wofigxqfo/AABqBQditEgKTSI1rsJ_6YTXa?dl=0.
This does seem like an expensive and labour intensive exercise to me!

If I am correct, I believe that Harbeth did once make a version of the P3ESR in a Gloss White finish for some markets outside the UK and I remember seeing one of the HUG members post pictures of his. If you don't mind about warranty issues, it might be an idea to do a search for any used ones for sale.

Regards,

Mike
 

mirekti

New member
MikeM said:
This does seem like an expensive and labour intensive exercise to me!
I look at this as a risk I am willing to take (if well prepared, a one day exercise) which end result will be Harbeths in the living room. :)
 

Don Tomaso

New member
I would second Mike's statement and simply ask Harbeth about a "special edition" M30 for you. If they can make them in grey, white should be also possible. This is not the mass-product-factory where you would need to reprogram all the robots for that.. Any statement from A.S.?
 

mirekti

New member
Don Tomaso said:
Any statement from A.S.?
Yes, there was a thread where Mr. Shaw stated they actually made those with loss and it was labor and time intensive thing to do.
Anyhow, as of now my best chances are to try it with M20.1. I just want to make sure all is set before I commence and place an order.

Here is my project list:

1. Speakon connector - solved - just modify on side of the cables to have 2 pole connectors
2. What type of color to use - pending - what is recommended and what should be avoided.
3. How to remove M20.1 silver badge and put it back - pending - my idea is to use a fan and try to heat it up and than try to remove it with some plastic tool (like those used to open iPhone). Will have to be careful no to bend it.
 

Jeff_C

Member
If the badges do not come off intact, you could always see about ordering a new pair from Harbeth HQ. This project is already costing quite a premium over a new pair of M20.1, a few extra quid should not matter.
 

szigony

Member
I see two possible way to get Harbeth. in white.First try to speak with Harbeth about your special requirements.I'm sure this is cost more then real wood veneer,but worth to ask.
If is not possible then try to find some special white vinyl/foil or 3M wrap film finish for example some design and car studio use it.
 
Top